Hotel Casa do Amarelindo

A beautifully restored townhouse with roof-level pool, whose 10 rooms promise absolute peace despite being in the central Pelourinho district

Bump your way through the colourful cobbled streets, past capoeira dancers, hecklers and hippies, deep into Salvador's Pelourinho district, once the Portuguese capital of Brazil. You’re bang in the middle of a UNESCO World Heritage town, and you’d be mesmerised if you weren't so hot and tired from the journey. Which is why the Casa do Amarelindo is such a glorious respite. Step through its tall archways into a tranquil reception area and let the cool terracotta floor, whitewashed walls and tropical courtyard soothe your mind.

Take the lift to your room and enter a totally quiet and sunny space. The vast kingsize bed promises hours of sleep; the air con blows out welcoming cool air. Soundproofed French doors mean you won’t be disturbed by the street noise below, but step onto your balcony and you’ve got the perfect vantage spot for vibrant Bahian life. What’s more, there’s a roof terrace with a panoramic view of Todos os Santos Bay, and a swimming pool to beat the heat. You’re at the heart of the action, yet one step removed.

Highs

• Excellent food and cocktails, served by the pool or in the ambient restaurant
• Simple but stylish décor, and the entire hotel is well maintained
• Friendly service from French owners Gilles and Didier, and the whole of their team
• Beautifully quiet rooms despite being in the centre of town
• During our visit (in 2009) it was the only hotel in Pelourinho with a rooftop pool

Lows

• Can be tricky to find - ensure your taxi driver knows his way before turning on the meter and be prepared to carry your luggage the last 50m down the car-free street
• Pelourinho swarms with touts and tourists in peak season; walking to and from Casa do Amarelindo without being harangued is no mean feat
• Children under 14 aren't accepted - a high for some!