Hotel Casa Real

Opulent mansion set in 40-hectare private park, hidden among world-class vineyards an hour south of Santiago

Day-trippers flock to Viña Santa Rita in the central valley to tour the world-class winery, lunch at Doña Paula restaurant and browse the collection of pre-Columbian art at the Andino Museum. And they never suspect they’ve missed the crown jewel.

Hidden from view, the lavish Pompeiian-style mansion built in 1880 by the winery’s founder is accessible only to fortunate guests staying in its 16 rooms. The sumptuous salons of the main house and exquisite neo-Gothic chapel transport you back to an era of grace and privilege. Sip tea on the veranda overlooking a European-style park with statues, fountains, forests, gardens, ponds, orchards, and sweeping lawns. Black-necked swans whistle like Andean flutes as you bike to the pool or tennis courts. Your dinner entrée is expertly paired with a Santa Rita wine, and followed by a game of billiards on the original George Wright & Co table. It's a delicious opportunity to nurse delusions of grandeur in a setting which, were it a museum, would be behind velvet ropes.

Highs

• A fascinating family history in portraits, antiques and an elaborate chapel, built by Domingo Fernández Concha for his daughter’s blueblood marriage
• We loved the creakingly authentic, 18-foot-high rooms in the north wing
• The atmosphere is refreshingly unpretentious; service is attentive and hosts are charming
• Exclusive access to huge grounds maintained by 15 gardeners, including a pool, a sauna and 2 tennis courts
• Free tours in a horse-drawn wagon of one of Chile’s leading wineries
• Perfect venue for special occasions, group gatherings and business retreats

Lows

• Epicureans may be disappointed by the simple menu
• Rooms in the newer wing have a Hyatt-like sameness, upscale but lacking in personality
• The closest restaurants or shops are in Santiago (45km away)
• Not cheap at these rates