Hotel de Banville

Delightful, classy, family-owned hotel in a quiet, tree-lined avenue just outside the bustle of the city centre

Arrive late (like us) and you'll be welcomed with a changing illumination of the beautiful art deco facade. The 1926 building, named after a Romantic poet, has had a classy makeover at the hands of architect Laurent Moreau, who has also highlighted the original lift and decorative iron bannisters, and smartened up the rooms no end. The shiny lobby now serves as bar, lounge and breakfast room, with a modern fireplace, old oil paintings and a baby grand. This is transformed into a table for wonderful buffet breakfasts, but comes tinkling back to life on Tuesday evenings when Marianne Moreau, whose family have owned the hotel for 40 years, takes to the microphone for some sultry jazz.

An impressive cameo, but it's the 38 bedrooms and suites which really make the guests sing with joie de vivre: clean, contemporary and highly comfy, they manage to feel both cosy and spacious. You get modern facilities: air-con, wi-fi connectivity, luxurious bathrooms, lots of storage space. Off the beaten track it may be, but it's peaceful, welcoming and richly deserving of its fourth star.

Highs

• Immaculate art-deco exterior and lovingly-designed interiors
• Easy access for those coming by car, with inexpensive on-street parking nearby
• Friendly family management, and courteous service from English-speaking staff

Lows

• The out-of-centre location means public transport to all the sites, but bus and metro connections are good
• No restaurant or proper dining room, but rich breakfasts in the lobby (and, if you want, takeaway meals brought to your room)
• The rooms aren't large but they're carefully put together