Hotel El Patio

A simple manor house - the ancestral home of the first family of Tenerife - wrapped in a banana plantation that flanks a rugged coast

The de Ponte’s carry some weight in Garachico - they’ve been here since 1507. They built their own church in 1565, then ruled the island from 1608. This is their land down by the sea, and the dragon tree that stands in the courtyard is 400 years old.

These days they run a banana plantation. It’s all around you, with signed footpaths to guide you through it. You plunge off the main road, pass the small church, then roll down towards the ocean. The hotel is a curious mix of styles. Century-old palms soar in an ancient courtyard, and a sparkling pool lazes out back with sublime views up the mountain. Inside, the 26 rooms are simple, homely and spotless. Don’t expect designer chic; do expect cast-iron beds, floral bedcovers, colourful walls and terracotta-tiled floors. Rooms are split between the manor house, the winery and the stables. Others are half a mile up the lane in a pretty annex, offering total peace and quiet. Don’t miss the old garden, the lemon trees, the hanging ferns, the purple bougainvillea, the tennis court and the croquet pitch. A total escape, and deservedly popular with families from around Europe.

Highs

• The pool: it's flanked by banana trees with views up the mountain
• The people: Elena and Baltasar run their home with great charm and old-fashioned hospitality
• The peace: you're in the middle of a banana plantation. You might be just a few miles from the (modest) resorts of Icod and Puerto de Santa Cruz, but you'd never guess
• The courtyard: stately palms, tropical flowers, vast sofas, free herbal teas and fresh-picked fruit on tap
• Nearby Garachico: an authentic little town that's beyond the tourist trappings

Lows

• Dinner is only served once or twice a week; on other days you'll have to drive a couple of miles to Icod or Garachico
• Some rooms are half a mile along the lane. We thought this was rather romantic; you might not
• Service is brisk and efficient, but feels rather institutional
• The weather in this region is cloudier and rainier than the southwest part of the island - but that means fewer crowds
• Elena and Baltasar are of an older, less email-addicted generation; don't be surprised if your enquiry takes a day or two to be answered