Hotel Endsleigh

An elegant country retreat set in 100 acres of fairy-tale parkland overlooking the winding River Tamar, on the Devon-Cornwall border

As English country views go, there can be few better than this. From the oak panelled drawing room, our gaze sweeps over a kaleidoscope of flowering borders and a neat strip of croquet lawn, it soars across the plunging valley of the River Tamar, and loses itself in the dark conifer forests of the far bank: the start of Cornwall. There is not another building or road in sight. Behind you, immense copper beeches and Douglas firs stand sentinel over rainbow roundels of pansies, tumbling brooks, an octagonal dairy house surely inhabited by pixies, a Victorian shell grotto, a path dripping with roses, and the handsome Regency house in which we sit, sipping Earl Grey and scoffing cream-laden scones.

It's little wonder that the Duke of Bedford, who 2 centuries ago owned a third of Devon, chose this spot for his hunting- and fishing lodge. Now, Grade-I listed and converted into a 16-room country hotel courtesy of Olga Polizzi and her hotel-inspecting daughter Alex, it draws a discerning, often older clientele, who savour the fine cuisine, the private fishing, the landscaped grounds, the crackle of newspapers and fireplaces at tea time, and of course the deep, bucolic silence outside. In summer, those who can afford it block book the place for lavish weekend weddings in the most idyllic of surrounds (married life, as my wife observed, could only go downhill after that). The classically English bedrooms and suites are a study in painted wallpapers, rolltop bathtubs, book-lined shelves and snugly quilted beds; there's also a separate gatekeeper's lodge ideal for a couple with a child.

Highs

• You're only 4.5 hours from London, 2 from Bristol, but somewhere en route you slip through a phantom tollbooth into a Narnia fairytale, and only re-emerge when you rejoin the M4 on the way home
• Set midway between Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor, you've also got superb hiking and riding on your doostep
• For such a privileged spot, there's not an ounce of stuffiness: staff are young and friendly, children treated with easy-going smiles, and guests mingle happily for pre-dinner drinks
• When we visited, candles were lit throughout the house in the evening, creating a wonderfully romantic atmosphere. We think it makes an ideal proposal spot
• The beds (many of them kingsize) are wonderfully comfy, and the widely spaced layout ensures total silence

Lows

• You're about as far from the sea as it's possible to be in Devon or Cornwall (though still only 25 miles/45 minutes from Boscastle or Looe)
• There's no on-site spa nor pool, which - if you're lucky enough to get a hot summer's day - you might expect at this price
• Not for those seeking a vibrant party atmosphere
• A few of the bedrooms are under the eaves or on the small side, but this is reflected in the prices