Hotel Esencia

Peaceful, luxurious hotel with white-on-white rooms, delicious seafood and an organic spa, set on a perfect stretch of beach in Xpu-Ha

Thirty years ago, the powder-soft sands and warm turquoise sea of Xpu-Ha bewitched the Italian Duchess of Ferrari to such an extent that she commissioned a Mexican architect to build her a holiday house there. And what a holiday house: a 50-acre estate of perfectly manicured lawns dotted with palm trees, backed by the tropical jungle, and fronted by that dazzling white beach. She spent several years in fleeting residence, but finally decided to share her slice of paradise, so crafted her home into a hotel in 2006, adding extra rooms in the greenery behind the white stucco main house.

A glorious fusion of Caribbean colours, Mayan heritage and sleek modernity, Hotel Esencia is a world away from Playa Del Carmen - and very much retains its tranquil, elegant roots. Its 30 rooms are spoiling and decadent - pristine white, with sumptuous bathrooms and private terraces. Its Sal y Fuego restaurant is one of Mexico’s best, with a sublime ceviche menu and perfectly zested margaritas. And its organic spa is the stuff relaxation dreams are made of, with open-air massage rooms, herb-scented steam rooms and thermal Jacuzzis.

But what really sets Esencia apart is its incredibly friendly service towards families and couples alike, and its relaxed overall vibe. And the complimentary afternoon tea served in the comfortable salon gives the hotel a sociable villa feel, just as the Duchess intended.

Highs

• Spoiling little touches include pre-breakfast coffee and pastries delivered to your room, 8am yoga classes, Havaianas, help-yourself minibars, and couples' palapas on the beach
• It's fantastic for families, with free babysitting, thoughtful activities, and a kids’ pool
• The airy spa has its own herb garden, housed in a circular Mayan-inspired building, with open-air massage tables and decadent treatments
• The fabulous rooms and suites are very private, spacious and squeaky clean. Most have plunge pools or hammocks, and a couple have cinema rooms
• The excellent staff quickly know you by name

Lows

• It's expensive. There are often good-value packages and special offers, but exclusivity comes at a price, and some food and drink is overpriced. There are extortionate unexpected costs too - e.g. the pre-loaded iPods and room service
• There's an excessive use of towels (3 per person just for your sun lounger) and small water bottles, although these are recycled
• If you want a child-free environment, this probably isn't for you; the hotel was fairly overrun with families when we visited
• The menu is limited, and there are no other decent restaurants within walking distance. Also, there's no bar to sit in after 9pm
• Reminders of the money spent to date arrive to your room every other day. Some feel it’s best not to know until check-out; others would like a daily itemised bill