Hotel Neruda

Four-star oasis of understated chic nestling amid the opulence of Prague's Old City

A stone's throw from Prague Castle, at the top of Nerudova Street or King's Road, Hotel Neruda - named after a 19th century writer and philosopher - hides its light under a bushel. What a welcome change in this exuberant city of a hundred spires, sights and sounds. You would be forgiven for assuming that the genteel chocolate-box facade spells olde-worlde lodgings. Inside however, contemporary design cool contrasts starkly with the quaint exterior.

A striking balance of old and new is maintained throughout: the occasional carriage clock or ornate mirror stand out against the clean white lines and dark woods that characterise Neruda. The millennium makeover complements the character of this 1348 building, and the new wing added in 2007 offers more availability. The owners pride themselves on the efforts made to blend this happening hotel into the yesteryear appeal of Mala Strana, while the unfailingly helpful staff are an added bonus.

Highs

• Picturesque, quiet location
• 21st century comfort in a 14th century setting
• Spotless roomy en-suites with complimentary designer toiletries
• Delicious big breakfasts taken on the terrace

Lows

• Neruda is perched at the top of a steep hill, so best look elsewhere if you'll find this difficult
• There are no hotel grounds or balconies from which to enjoy the views
• You'll have to dine out of an evening (cafe serves breakfasts, light lunches and teatime fare)