Hotel Ranga

Alpine lodge in remote southern Iceland where you can watch volcanoes explode, see the Northern Lights and eat like a (vi)king

If Iceland is all about the surreal and quirky – glaciers, volcanoes, moss-covered lava fields and unexpected natural wonders – then Rangá is its poster boy. From the outside it’s a 51-room log-style lodge in the middle of nowhere, 96km east of Reykjavik, with views of Iceland’s legendary Hekla volcano; inside it’s a different story.

You’re greeted by a real stuffed polar bear called Hrammur and upstairs are 7 suites, themed to suit the world’s continents. What could be more weird and wonderful than sleeping in a room mocked up to resemble an African safari hut, but looking out to the East Rangá river, stuffed with salmon? Or relaxing in the black and white Antarctica suite, complete with photos and mini penguins? There are less extravagant rooms too, but the suites ice the cake.

Restaurant 4 has an exciting and delicious menu including locally smoked puffin, lamb and wild salmon, and the outdoor hot tubs are one of the best places on earth to watch the winter Northern Light displays (November-April). Activity-wise, anything goes. And I mean anything. Want to watch a live volcano erupt? Take a helicopter up Mount Hekla? Visit a glacial lagoon? It can all be done.

Highs

• Fantastic location for exploring South Iceland’s delights, particularly Jökulsárlón lagoon and the glaciers and volcanoes, as well as the Gulfoss waterfall and Great Geysir
• Food is fabulous - the best in the area
• A dizzyingly romantic setting and set-up: drink champagne in the hot tub, go horse riding across the wild moors, get married by a waterfall
• Excellent service - staff will even wake you up at night to see the Northern Lights if you ask them to
• Most rooms have Jacuzzi tubs and views of the volcano or river; some have private balconies, too

Lows

• You need to drive here from Reykjavik; public transport is unreliable
• Some feel it is overpriced
• Suites have Jacuzzi baths with hand-held showers – not ideal if you just want a shower
• Remote, so you're likely to eat all meals in-house (not a hardship in terms of taste, just budget)