Hotel Shreenath Palace

Feel like Romeo and Juliet in this romantic 450-year-old haveli, deep inside Jaisalmer's magical and unique Fort

Shreenath Palace was built by the Vyas family in the 16th-century and its Brahmin descendants still live there today. It's steeped in history, from the ornately carved stone and steeply winding steps, to the delicate alcoves, gorgeous archways and faded ancestors' photos on the walls. Tucked deep inside India's only 'living' Fort (which we found utterly enchanting), and next to Jain temples, it's reached on foot or motorbike via a maze of narrow, honey-sandstone lanes down which no cars or tuk-tuks will fit.

There are 5 bedrooms in total. Three are spacious, pillared and balconied, adorned with beautiful old stone and wood carvings, jewel-coloured silks and velvets. The 2 smaller, more modest 'Rajasthani' rooms at the top of the haveli are due to be expanded and improved, so for now we'd recommend one of the bigger ones. All rooms are uniquely decorated and retain their old grandeur.

The hotel is run by handsome, well-educated ex-soldier Raj and his semi-retired father Omji. They've only recently upgraded the hotel to appeal to a 'boutique' clientele, so there are still elements that feel more 'homestay' than luxury, and it's popular with the grown-up backpacker set. But the family and their staff are charming, very keen to please, and happy to receive suggestions, as well as provide extensive advice on local sights and prices.

Highs

• Jaisalmer Fort itself - a trek from Jodhpur (6 hours) but unmissable in our book. We were blown away by its beautiful golden light, and the astonishingly intricate carving of the sandstone havelis and Jain temples within
• The atmosphere in the Fort: uniquely lived in, there's a buzzy, village feel, and locals are friendly
• The solicitous charm of Raj and his father - you're definitely made to feel part of the family, and little embroidery-framed reception signs welcome you by name
• The family own Shreenath Excellence Restaurant just outside the Fort walls, which has great-value vegetarian meals, that are also available via room service
• Day trips to visit Iron Age, mud-hut desert villages and their smiling inhabitants, and being taken to Kuldhara village (suddenly abandoned 300 years ago) on the back of Raj's motorbike

Lows

• Surrounding rooftops are messy as neighbours routinely use them to dump stuff
• Beds are on the hard side, bathrooms are a bit basic and there's little of storage space
• No lounge or in-house dining room
• Houseboy Krishna is still learning how to give hotel-style room service and speak fluent English
• No swimming pool but that's the case throughout the Fort