Hotel Signum

Pretty country-house hotel in the languid village of Malfa, with big pool, fragrant gardens and inspiring sea views.

If you thought the Aeolian Islands were all about summer crowds, noisy parties and arid landscapes, then think again. Tucked away on the quiet side of Salina, the largest and greenest of the 7 islands, the Signum lies half-hidden among Malfa's citrus groves, flowery fields and winding lanes. From its jasmine-scented gardens and sunset-facing terrace, you look up to looming peaks and down over indigo seas - which are 10 mins away, if you fancy a dip.

The hotel itself (a restored residence with newer pastel-coloured extensions) has something of the French country house in its sofa'd drawing room, oil paintings, fer forgé beds and balconies opening onto blossom and birdsong. Bedrooms may lack the contemporary chic of the Capofaro or the party vibe of the Raya, but they're spacious, comfy, elegant (in an old-fashioned, rustic way) - and half the price. It's also family-run, family-friendly and refreshingly unselfconscious, with a long 8-month season which appeals to discerning travellers.

Highs

• The superb home-cooked food at the open-air restaurant was praised on a recent visit by Jamie Oliver
• You'll find welcoming family owners and good service from 20+ young staff
• This is a secluded retreat from the summer crowds
• There are beautiful gardens, a big (though rather enclosed) pool and a terrace-bar with views to Stromboli
• It's well-placed for boat trips, hikes and the gorgeous Pollara beach (the cast stayed here when filming Il Postino)
• The spa has thermal steam baths, mineral-rich hydrotherapy and intoxicating beauty treatments

Lows

• Most 'Classic' rooms have garden views; for sea views you need to pay extra
• Bedrooms, though charming, are quite simple and rustic
• The pool gets busy in summer
• There are occasional (small) groups, and some rooms get noise from the breakfast area