Hotel V

Eating

Dinners are served by request and must be pre-booked. Dining at Hotel V is a moveable feast, the 'where' and 'when' dictated by the weather and your own wishes. The top terrace would always be our first choice for a romantic dinner-for-two: space in the courtyard downstairs is limited and although tables can be laid up in the 'winter salon', it feels like an impromptu arrangement.

Hotel V's cuisine is market-driven, which in Vejer means plenty of fresh fish - the ocean is less than 10km away - and veggies are sourced from nearby market gardens. Our meal began with a cold beetroot salmorejo soup served with garnishes of chopped egg and ham, which was followed by seared dorada fillets with fresh pasta and a sweet sherry sauce: both dishes were scrumptious. A dessert of melon and custard, topped by a nectarine coulis, kept us plum in the comfort zone.

Masses of TLC went into compiling a wine list that showcases a small selection of Spanish wines: there are just 4 white listings, 1 rosé and half a dozen reds, but all are the business. If you've got something to celebrate there's 2001 Special Reserve Cava, and Ruinart Champagne is also on offer.

If you prefer to eat out, Vejer has a number of great cheap-and-cheerful tapas bars: be sure to check out Pedro Conejito and Peña El Caballo, and if you're in town on a Saturday night head for Peña Aguilar where you can listen to local flamenco in a converted chapel. We'd recommend eating at least one time in the delightful Plaza de España (preferably alfresco), and if fusion is your culinary thing, dip into Casa de Califa's beautiful courtyard restaurant.

Back at V, there's no rush to get down for breakfast, which is served until midday or later. A standard continental version is included in the price of your room but you can up the stakes and order a full English variant, Hotel V's 'healthy' breakfast (which includes muesli, soya milk and actimel yoghurt), or treat yourself to the 'Royal': get your day off to a regal start with cava, smoked salmon and the finest Iberian ham.