Hotel Verneuil

An intimate, classy little hotel near the Musée d'Orsay, decorated with the flair and finesse of a private home

This meticulously renovated 17th-century townhouse could fairly claim to be one of the most charming buildings on one of the most enchanting streets in one of the world's most beautiful cities. You're just south of the river and the Musée d'Orsay, among the art-drenched cafés and historic houses of St Germain des Pres. Verlaine, Rimbaud, Camus and Sartre all lived, wrote and drank near here; today Karl Lagerfeld is your neighbour.

Inside you'll find a homely drawing room with exposed beams, panelled walls, bright rugs, endless books and a roaring fire in winter. Below is a vaulted breakfast room; up the winding stairs are 26 small but perfectly formed bedrooms. Owner Sylvie de Lattre has set framed engravings and vintage lamps against white-painted walls and beams to create a stylish yet homely aesthetic. You also get 20th-century mod cons, including air-con, WiFi, and compact but functional shower-bathrooms. It's an excellent and slightly exclusive choice if (like us) you spend most of the time sightseeing, and want to come home to tranquility and good taste at an affordable price.

Highs

• We liked the sociable atmosphere - guests share stories in front of the fire in the library before going out to dinner
• All the bedrooms were completely refurbished in 2012 and feel very sleek and bright
• Great neighbourhood - you can walk almost everywhere (Musée d'Orsay, Louvre, Invalides) and pass mouth-watering shops en route (Armani, Dior, Cartier, Vuitton)

Lows

• Bedrooms and bathrooms are very small
• Public spaces (lobby, library and breakfast room) are also pretty cosy - but very friendly
• The circular staircase may be difficult for some, and the tiny lift only starts halfway up to the first floor