Hua Hin & East Coast
Why go?
It's often overlooked, but there are 500km of gulfside coastline
between Bangkok and Surat Thani (opposite Samui). This section
concentrates on the northerly 300km, from the capital to the
self-appointed 'gateway to the south', Chumphon. Within this
stretch, the northern half (Phetchaburi – Cha Am – Hua
Hin) has succumbed to rather tasteless high-rise development, while
the southern half (Prachuap Khiri Khan – Chumphon) is almost
untouched by tourism.
Chumphon has boat links with Koh Tao - Koh Phangang - Koh Samui,
but timings might necessitate an overnight en route.
Heading south from Bangkok, Phetchaburi is the first place
of any note. Its crumbling temples and wooden shophouses offer an
atmospheric (though somewhat faded) memento of its rich history as
a trading post between Andaman sea ports and Ayutthaya and Burma.
West of town are a royal palace and summer house, and a pair of
cave-temples. If you're driving past and feel like a break, this
makes a good coffee- or lunch-stop, and you can finish with one of
the sweet pastries on which the town prides itself.
Cha Am is, frankly, best avoided. This rapidly developing
resort used to cater for Thais escaping Bangkok, but now there are
more and more farangs bringing jetskis, minimarkets and
high-rise hotels in their wake. Dare we say it, but Cha-Am has lost
its cha-arm? In common with almost all the coast from here to
Chumphon, the beach is narrow and very tidal, and the water rather
murky; and the scenery inland rather flat and featureless.
Half an hour further south is Hua Hin, made famous by its
royal patronage and its 5km beach. There's a large and famous
Sofitel at the heart of the beachfront, which has plenty of history
but (we felt) not very much character. Still, the town makes a
reasonably interesting base, especially if you're a golfer: there
are half a dozen 18-hole courses, including the Jack
Nicklaus-designed Springfield, and the 27-hole Imperial Lake
View.
Next stop, heading south, is Pranburi, which is establishing
itself as the area's funky, up-and-coming beach (photo above). Once
again it's a long, straight, tidal strip of brown sand - rather
featureless but great for beach games and long walks in and out of
the lapping waves. There's still a fleet of traditional fishing
boats here, whose eerie green lights decorate the horizon at
night-time. Best of all, there are some very stylish new
mini-resorts, the original and best of which is
Aleenta - our favourite place to stay in the whole
of this region. We also checked out Praseban, but found its modern,
glassy rooms lacked in privacy, and its Balinese style too much a
copy of Aleenta to be convincing.
Half an hour further south, the scenery starts to pick up. A
serrated skyline marks the beginning of Khao Sam Roi Yot
(300 peaks) National Park, which conceals a wealth of animal- and
birdlife. In the deciduous and bamboo woods you may spot serow (a
rare, black goat-antelope), pangolin, civet, porcupine, mongeese
and primates like langurs, macaques and the 'slow loris'. September
to November sees Thailand's best concentration of migratory birds
following the Asian / Australian flyway over its freshwater marshes
and salt pans: purple heron, kingfishers, egrets, as well as
colourful songbirds. A 1-hour canal trip from Khao Daeng in the
early morning or evening is the best way to observe them.
From the traditional fishing village of Bang Pu you can catch a
boat to the white-sand beach of Laem Sala – one of the few
really picturesque strands in the region, though busy at weekends;
and from there follow steep trails up to the astonishing cave of
Phraya Nakhon, with a royal pavilion-temple in its very depths.
Other trails link Khao Daeng with a hilltop viewpoint and a series
of inaccessible coves.
Heading south you reach Prachuap Khiri Khan, the provincial
capital and home to two busy night markets. It's a quiet place of
brightly-painted wooden houses and few tourists. Continuing south
towards Chumphon – most likely by train, as there's little
other transport – the last remnants of organised tourism
disappear completely, replaced by prawn farms, rice and pineapple
fields, and low hills rising to meet the Burmese border. There's
practically nowhere to stay, and very little to do other than
immerse yourself in slow Thai rural life.