Ile de Re
Why go?
Joined by a vast bridge to the mainland, the Ile de Ré is
only a hop, skip and a jump from La Rochelle, but it feels a
million miles away from bustling city life. This is one of the
favourite holiday retreats for wealthy Parisians who want to escape
to the beach en famille or à deux, for anything from a
weekend to a fortnight. And little wonder. There's exquisite
seafood, stunning beaches, gorgeous stone cottages, isolated salt
marshes and dunes for bird watching - and, throughout it all, that
handsome, laid-back charm that the French do so well.
The island is a hub for oyster and salt production and is also
famous for its wines and tasty potatoes. A local government order
banning all development over two storeys and insisting on all new
builds being in the same style as the remainder of the island means
it still feels quaint and unspoilt. Houses are white, with shutters
of duck egg blue or sea green. But the real joy of Ré is the
fact that it is laced with over 100km of well-signed cycle paths,
and with the highest point of the island being only 19m above sea
level, it is perfect for easy-going bike rides from beach to beach,
or to the colourful local markets that run throughout the summer.
French celebrities love the gentle pace of life, and many have been
spotted in its clutch of unexpectedly boutique hotels.
There are 10 villages on the island, each with its own unique
character. The capital, Saint Martin, is a small port with oodles
of glamorous boutiques and antique shops hidden in its tiny lanes,
alongside fabulous restaurants and bistros. La Flotte is well known
for its vibrant outdoor market; sleepy Ars-en-Ré for its
black steeple standing out against the perfect blue sky. You could
visit most of the villages in a couple of days, or take a day to
explore each one if you have the time and energy. The beaches are
also stunning, the longest of them stretching for 3km. The Retais
(islanders) claim that Ré has as many days of sunshine as
the Cote d'Azur - and if you don't need jet-skis and jewels, this
would make a lovely alternative to the more famous south
coast.
The Ile de Ré has a population of around 18,000 people.
However, during the months of July and August this swells to a
staggering 400,000. The island is barely large enough to survive
this onslaught of holidaymakers (largely French) and if you do go
at this time, you should make hotel and restaurant reservations
months in advance - and be prepared to sit cheek by jowl with
hundreds of other families on the beach. May, June and September
are far less crowded - a perfect time to visit, if you can.