India: North: Overview

Why go?

Northern India's landscape is wonder-fully diverse: barren deserts contrast with rolling green hills and snowy Himalayan peaks, hot days with cool nights, rural farmland with large, bustling cities. Architectural wonders range from magnificent Islamic architecture to medieval forts, marbled palaces and ornate temples of many faiths. Wherever you roam, you will be struck by the strong colours, friendly people and extreme beauty of its countryside.

The Himalayas dominate the North, a series of ranges sweeping northwest to southeast. Its beautiful valleys conceal Buddhist temples, ancient villages, tea plantations and colonial hill stations.

The northern states, centred on populous Uttar Pradesh (UP), stretch from the mighty Himalayas to the steamy plains of the Ganges. They contain some of India's most venerated sites: the source of the Ganges, the mountain temples of the Char Dham, the holy Hindu city of Varanasi and the unfailingly spellbinding Taj Mahal palace in Agra. You can also visit Victorian-esque hill stations, the tiger-inhabited Corbett National Park and the once lavish Muslim capital, Lucknow. This land has inspired everyone from the great Buddha and Mahavira (founder of Jainism) to the Beatles, who stayed with the Maharishi at Rishikesh, now home to countless ashrams, gurus and yogis.

Lively Rajasthan, "Land of the Kings" and India's second largest state, is awash with historic cities packed with stunning Mughal palaces, ornate temples and majestic hilltop forts set against rich and varied topography. Its pulsating life, dazzling colours and sheer wealth of culture have captivated generations of visitors and made it one of Asia's prime tourist destinations. Among the must-sees are Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, each city with its own colour and character; and Jaisalmer, set on the edge of the Thar desert.

The great northern plains holds millions of people - 15 million of them in the Indian capital, Delhi. For most, it's little more than a gateway city, but there's plenty to do - not least superb shopping and fine dining - for a few days.

Any downsides?

There's a lot to see and do, and the tourist trail can feel relentless. Be prepared for early starts, to beat the crowds and heat. During the peak months of October - March, internal flights and smaller hotels get booked up months in advance, and there is a danger of overbooking. From May - August, it is extremely hot on the plains and sightseeing is only possible early mornings and evenings. The Himalayas are a good refuge when it becomes oppressive; but avoid the monsoon rains, which can double journey times and make trekking uncomfortable.

Distances are enormous, the roads can be poorly maintained and extremely slow; build in time to see places properly and enjoy the experience! When booking train tickets, a complicated waitlisting process can be applied. Shopping can be more of a trial than a pleasure, as everybody seems hellbent on selling you something; learn to say ‘no’ politely and firmly. Even then, guides will find a wily way to take you to their cousin’s aunt’s brother’s shop!

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  Activities

* Sightseeing: Rajasthan and UP brim with richly historic cities, medieval fortresses and dreamy palaces. The romantic Taj Mahal in Agra is world-famous; but equally breathtaking are the pink city of Jaipur; the gorgeous lake-palaces and temples of Udaipur and Pushkar; the abandoned sandstone city of Fatehpur Sikri; the blue city and Meherangarh Fort of Jodhpur; the Hindu mecca of Varanasi on the Ganges; and the stunning golden fort of Jaisalmer rising from a stark desert landscape.

* Shopping: Specialities include precious and semi-precious gemstones, embroidered and block-printed fabrics, miniature Mughal-style painting, famous blue pottery, exquisitely carved furniture, silk and cotton fabrics, costume jewellery, tribal artefacts, and tailor-made clothes for a snip. Be prepared for hard bargaining, and look out for the government emporiums in major cities.

* Heritage hotels: A unique insight into India's history, staying in ancestral forts, palaces or havelis (old merchant houses), which are veritable museums; Deogarh Mahal, Devi Garh and Samode Palace are among our favourites.

* Trekking: The hill stations of UP and Sikkim have excellent hiking, through tea plantations and traditional villages whose way of life has remained unchanged for centuries.

* Horse-riding, elephant riding and even camel safaris in the desert; mountain biking in Uttarakhand, boating to Udaipur's Lake Palace; rafting on the Ganges at Ananda

* Flora and Fauna: Search for tigers in the wildernesses of Jim Corbette, Ranthambhore and Sariska; watch waterfowl from a lakeside tent near Jodhpur; marvel at the rhododendron forests of west Sikkim; hire bicycles from The Bagh to explore Keoladeo Ghana bird sanctuary (354 species including the Siberian crane).

* Holy Sites: India's spiritual side, be it Hindu, Buddhist, Jain or Islamic, is a breath of fresh air after western commercialism. Head for Varanasi with its ghats and ceremonies; hippy Rishikesh and ashram-dominated Haridwar; or the Buddhist monasteries of remote Sikkim.

* Architecture: Explore the the Jain temples at Ranakpur and the Dilwara Temples at Mt Abu, both from the 10th-16th centuries; the great Mughal forts at Chittorgarh and Amber Fort, with their elaborate terraces and roofs, exquisite craftsmanship and ornate inlay stonework.

* People-watching: There's always something to gaze at: exuberant wedding processions, women in dazzling saris, artisans at work, agriculture at dizzying angles and heights, fluttering prayer flags. But do be sensitive.

* Photography: With its bright colours and changing light, its awesome mountains and dry deserts, its sumptuous architecture and rich human interest, there's no shortage of Kodak moments.

* Festivals: Get caught up in the excitement of flamboyant social and spiritual events, like Pushkar's camel fair, Jaipur's elephant festival, Rishikesh's yoga gathering and UP's Buddhist processions and Hindu pilgrimages.
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