Inn at Occidental

Expect a warm welcome at this heritage inn in the heart of Sonoma County, just 90 minutes north of San Francisco

Sonoma County is one of our favourite places in California. We love it for its laid-back gourmet lifestyle and bucolic environs. But we had not explored Occidental before. An atmospheric autumnal journey through fog-wreathed redwoods brought us along the aptly-named Bohemian Highway into this quaint town of clapboard-cute buildings.

Occidental was founded during the logging boom of the 1870s and the Inn at Occidental dates from the town's earliest years. First a family home then a bottling company and shopfront, it is now a welcoming old-fashioned inn styled with vintage games, heirlooms and folk art. Local photographs and paintings hang throughout. The colourful living room has a big fireplace and 1870s parquet flooring; the original cellar is now the kitchen and breakfast room, which has an adjacent patio for delicious alfresco breakfasts. Read the paper on the wraparound front veranda with morning coffee; relax with a book in the English courtyard garden complete with fountain and 22 species of roses.

With 16 playfully themed rooms and suites, plus a 2-bedroomed self-catering cottage, you'll find accommodation to suit, whether for a private romantic getaway or with the whole family. Tempting though it is to curl up in front of your fireplace or soak in your spa bath, there's so much to do on the doorstep - and Jerry and his team are eager to share their wealth of insider knowledge on the delights of Wine Country.

Highs

• Cosy, convivial feel: there's an all-hours help-yourself tea and coffee station, plus plenty of books and games, and complimentary wine and cheese on offer daily at 5pm
• A strategically-placed getaway: you feel off the beaten track, yet are within 15 minutes drive of the coast, wineries, gourmet restaurants, spas and gorgeous scenery for canoeing, hiking, riding or ballooning
• Luxurious rooms with Frette linens, Aveda toiletries, romantic fireplaces; all but 4 have spa baths complete with rubber duckies
• Winning touches include handmade quilts, four-poster beds, colourful artwork and quirky memorabilia, from vintage pinball machines to Humpty Dumpty dolls
• Helpful, friendly staff led by owners Jerry and Tina, who can point you in any direction you need. There's also a useful directory in your room

Lows

• Only breakfast is served, but there are several restaurants within walking distance and a wider choice within a 10-minute drive
• Not for lovers of contemporary muted minimalism; the Inn is a cornucopia of objets and whimsy
• Rooms and common areas are 'refreshed' over the winter months one at a time, so you could find some wear and tear in fabrics and fittings depending on when your room was last upgraded
• No pool or gym facilities