Jakes

Eclectic, shabby-chic cottages and a friendly mellow mood on Jamaica's undeveloped southern coast

Not the most luxurious, but certainly the most charming hotel in Jamaica - and my favourite place to stay on the island. Jake's will break your stride in 3 easy paces as you walk (barefoot) into a different world. It's located at Treasure Beach on the rugged south coast and is very much part of the local fishing community; this is a universe away from West Coast mass-produced tourism. Owned by Sally Henzell (wife of film director Perry Henzell), the 31-cottage hotel was named for the family's pet parrot, and has gradually evolved since they opened Jake's Restaurant in 1991. The simple, colourful buildings dot the garden and seafront, with plenty of room in-between for lounging on cushions with a Red Stripe. There are rooms and small cottages for 2-4 people, villas and houses for 6-8, and Jake's bohemian atmosphere appeals to couples and families alike.

We were greeted by a spectacular sunset, which, combined with a remote reggae bass and knockout cocktail from Dougie's Bar, quickly lulled us into an easy submission. By day, the saltwater pool, wonderful treatments in the Driftwood Spa, sun decks, and low-key restaurants will keep you amused, but there's also plenty to see off-site, with many excellent tours run by the local community (fishing, biking, boat rides to the Pelican Bar). The beautiful, undeveloped southern coastline is worth the trip alone, but it won't stay quiet for long...

Highs

• Colourful cottages are refreshingly devoid of slick modernism, and quirkly decorated with sea-shell mirrors and stain glass windows; some have outdoor showers or private verandahs; villas have staff and private pools
• Peacefully located off the tourist track with an interesting mix of well-travelled guests
• Wonderful staff, there's a real sense of family about the place
• Laid-back but with the essential luxuries - lots of space, running warm water, great food, and WiFi if you want it
• This the real Jamaica, without a high-rise in sight. You really interact with the locals, and their infectious music and happy spirit will lift your soul

Lows

• It's 2.5 hours from Montego Bay and expensive if you hire a private driver to get here
• No sandy beach at the hotel, though sandy Jack Sprat’s Beach is a 2-minute walk away. There are rip tides in the sea so it's best to swim in the pool
• It’s rustic, and some cottages show lots of wear and tear, which is at odds with the price tag
• Mosquitoes can be a problem - rooms have nets and anti-mozzie candles, but bring DEET repellent
• Some feel the service is too relaxed