Jnane Leila

A beautiful kasbah hotel with pool and exquisite gardens, just outside of the city limits. A great choice for families with kids

Even though you're only 15 minutes from the narcotic cut-and-thrust of the Djemaa el Fna, once you pass through Jnane Leila's huge wooden gates you leave the maelstrom of the city far behind. The hotel looks inwards and has been built in authentic kasbah style around an ancient olive grove, using traditional pisé (big mud and straw sun dried bricks) for outer walls, tataoui woodwork for ceilings and bejmat tiles for floors. The atmosphere is of an authentic, exotic and protected refuge.

The 11 guest bedrooms have been conceived to give each a maximum of privacy and comfort. All look towards a large central pool and the surrounding gardens, where the lush greenery of olives, palms, citrus and cacti is contrasted by the brilliant pinks, whites and purples of geraniums, datura and bougainvillea. There's an attractive poolside bar and barbecue area, cushion-strewn Berber tents and daybeds for chilling out, and a beautiful restaurant with a rooftop terrace that looks out to the distant peaks of the High Atlas.

Highs

• The pisé used in the construction imparts a warm, organic feel; at night, when candles and lamps are lit, the atmosphere is enchanting
• Heart-stopping views from the restaurant's terrace of the snow-capped Atlas mountains
• Oodles of thought and care has gone into the snug and authentic bedrooms
• Quiet, shady spots in the gardens for escaping from the world; further privacy on your room's terrace
• Great traditional Moroccan food (although not so good at alternatives)
• Deeply rural setting belies the fact you’re only a short taxi ride from the city centre

Lows

• You do occasionally hear passing traffic. And being close to a mosque you’ll hear the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer
• Bedrooms are quite dark: windows are small so you get little in the way of direct light. And the appliqué wall lamps don't add a lot of additional illumination
• The musical soirées, with musicians and dancers, feel a tad touristy. But we enjoyed the spectacle
• It is sometimes block booked for parties etc so you should check you don't overlap with one
• It is not always possible to pay the final bill by credit card at the hotel, so you should check on arrival (there are no cashpoints nearby)