Kamalaya

A beautifully secluded ‘wellness sanctuary’ offering a holistic haven a world apart from its many competitors

Koh Samui is growing up. Its perfect stretches of sand may still rock to the beat of global party-goers, but away from the hotspots the island is reinventing itself as a retreat for world-weary spa-seekers. Detox has replaced drugs; relaxation is the new rock'n'roll. And serenity certainly reigns at Kamalaya, one of the most spectacular additions to Samui’s blossoming spa scene.

Tucked away in the undeveloped southeast of the island, Kamalaya’s architecture blends perfectly into its unspoilt surroundings, trickling alongside lily ponds and bathing pools, down the hillside to a pristine stretch of white sand. Specifically created as a space for healing and rejuvenation, the ambience is a luxuriant blend of ethereal bohemia and clean-lined Asian aesthetics. 10 stylish suites and 26 vast villas hide amongst the tropical jungle, not to mention steam rooms, rock pools, massage beds, yoga pavilions, tai chi classes and a monk's cave for meditation. But alongside its sincere commitment to an ‘unfolding of the spirit’, Kamalaya is never ashamed of being utterly indulgent.

Highs

• A magical place of rejuvenation: everything at Kamalaya is geared towards gentle self-discovery and pleasurable improvement
• Even the ubiquitous 'Samui detox' is different: delicious, cleansing dishes rather than starvation and clay shakes
• Excellent staff are on hand throughout, from magical masseurs to unbidden waiters bringing iced water as you emerge from the waves
• The villas and grounds are stylish and comfy – non-participating partners will be quite happy, thankyou
• My 3-day 'Relax & Renew' package was the perfect end to an exhausting trip through southeast Asia: a blissful blur of head massages, kundalini meditation, yoga classes and long lunches in poolside shalas

Lows

• Its spiritually-minded philosophy and close-knit community is not for cynical or private types, and some may find the service over-attentive
• Mosquitoes, frogs and lizards abound - though bedrooms are well protected and insect coils provided (and lit for you) in bathrooms and balconies
• The beach looks idyllic, but remains shallow for a long way; swimmers may have to content themselves with the bathing and lap pools
• Elsewhere the coast is stony, though staff can provide wading booties
• The steep hillside makes for some thigh-strengthening strolls up to dinner and down to the beach (though buggies are available for less mobile guests)