Kasbah Bab Ourika

Lord over the Atlas at this coolest of kasbahs at the head of the Ourika Valley

Few are the settings to match Bab Ourika's hilltop perch. To the north the jagged peaks of the Atlas rise sheer above the bled, to the east the fantastic forms of the Salt Natural Park's hills change hue with each passing hour, whilst to the west the lush terraces of the Ourika valley cut a sabre of green across an otherwise mineral landscape. This is a breathtakingly beautiful part of the Maghreb.

When it came to the kasbah's creation - it was the brainchild of a well-heeled English gent' - the ornate style of so many Marrekechi riads was eschewed in favour of a traditional build. Walls were made of rammed earth, floors of natural coloured beijmat and furnishings of Berber fabrics in muted shades of cream, brown and beige. The result is a series of living spaces which feel intimate, deeply restful and spoilingly comfortable. Bedrooms are big enough to stage your own fantasia and all have underfloor heating, fine linens and private terraces.

Come to dine beneath unpolluted night skies, lie by the sparkling pool, revel in the romance and live your own chapter of The Morocco That Was.

Highs

• A perfect sense of rural retreat yet you're just 45 minutes from the maelström of Marrakech
• Excellent hiking on your doorstep and Bab Ourika has its own guides
• Masses of intimate corners throughout the kasbah and gardens: it's perfect for romantic R&R
• Lifts you high above the mundane: gazing out at those amazing wraparound views means you'll forget the bank statements, daily commute and reality TV
• Admirable eco credentials, and very supportive of its surrounding Berber villages

Lows

• The chances are you won't meet the owner, but you'll be well cared for by Portuguese manager Beatriz, her assistant Wafa, and friendly team of Berber staff
• Arrival is via a bumpy track which cuts through the narrow streets of a Berber village: all part of the adventure
• A hefty wadge of dirhams if you stay for several nights - but why not just buy one less carpet?
• The kasbah's isolation means you'll feel bound to dine in house