Knai Bang Chatt

A beautiful, tranquil beach retreat on the Cambodian coast: 3 lovingly converted modernist houses, with sailing, yoga and snorkelling on tap

After stumbling off the beaten track on 2 beautiful modernist villas built by pupils of Vann Molyvann, (Minister of Urbanism and protégé of Le Corbusier), the owners converted and subtly added an extra house to them, with an impeccable sense of when enough is enough. The result is a serene but visually stunning resort.

The renovation brings out the individual character of the light, airy and perfectly proportioned houses, with their playful rhythm of geometric shapes, ship’s railings and combination of warm natural stone and concrete austerity. A great deal of thought has gone into what may look like the simple décor of the resort as a whole. The trees along the seafront have been kept from the original mangrove – gnarled ficus branches now hold hammocks while almond trees shade the reclining platforms on the lawn – and their interplay of shapes and shades of green are very attractive. An infinity pool, tiled in muted turquoise, leads on from the terrace, and the boathouse bar with its long jetty adds timeless, maritime charm. A true gem.

Highs

• Two beautifully converted modernist villas from Cambodia’s 50s heyday, and a third built by a contemporary French architect
• Lovely minimalist rooms and generous communal areas, with plenty of relaxation space
• Charming manager Stephane has a passion for the buildings and the country as a whole
• A sailing school with catamarans, surfboards and waterskis for hire; the hotel also arranges excursions and boat trips
• Infinity pool with plenty of loungers and space to lie around without rubbing oily shoulders with everyone else
• 3% of rental income goes to support poor villagers in the area

Lows

• Not a lot in the way of entertainment in the vicinity - Kep is a quiet beach town. However, the area is on the up so this may soon change
• No real beach; even from the jetty it’s a bit of a walk till you reach swimmable depth
• Staff, as so often in Cambodia, are friendly and willing rather than impeccably trained, but this will improve as management are on the case
• No TV (good news for most) but new computer for faster internet access for networking junkies
• The location would make coming here straight off a long-haul flight a needless ordeal. Better bracket it with a few days in Phnom Penh to decompress