Koh Tao
Why go?
Famed as a divers' paradise, this small island north of Phangan and
Samui is often overlooked by non-divers – and wrongly so.
It's a beautiful, tranquil, wooded isle with dense palm- and
rain-forests in the interior, and 20km of coastline hiding a
succession of secluded coves protected by vast granite boulders.
Electricity only reached the island a few years ago – we're
talking generators, not mains – and there are no landlines or
rubbish collection service. It's like a mini-Samui 15 years
ago.
Koh Tao means Turtle Island, named after the sea turtles who
breed here, and also apparently because of the shape of the island
(though frankly I have never seen such a wonky looking
turtle).
Of course the marine life is spectacular, and attracts a
fair number of young divers, most of whom concentrate around the
triple islets of Nangyuan, off northern Koh Tao. There are 25
recognised sites – pinnacles, coral gardens, canyons,
swim-throughs, chimneys – within 1km of the coast, around
15-30m in depth. Hawksbill turtles, giant barracuda, porcupine
pufferfish, butterfly fish, triggerfish, whale sharks (seasonal),
bat fish and stingrays are some of the highlights.
Evenings in the main village of Mae Haad can get almost
noisy in high season – but still a far cry from Koh Phangan
at full moon. The best thing about crowds of divers is that they
disappear underwater by day, leaving the island free for gentle
exploration on foot, longtail rides from cove to cove, perhaps a
tour by mountain bike or sea-kayak, not to mention the most
gratifying snorkelling ever – just slip on a mask and watch
the multi-coloured fish glide by!