La Bergerie

A rustic auberge set in 12 acres of flower-filled grounds among majestic mountains, with some secluded suites and a gorgeous pool

There's a wonderful sense of space here: 12 acres of open skies and and pine-scented air. From the rustic auberge, gravelled paths meander down, past an inviting pool flanked by trim lawns and white-cushioned day-beds, to lose themselves in terraced gardens bursting with rosemary, geranium, mimosa and lavender. Hidden among these are 5 stone-built bungalows, festooned with ivy, which house the spacious garden suites; further down is the original earthy-yellow inn, where 10 simpler rooms huddle around a patio garden. In the distance, rugged mountains rear up towards the peaks of the High Atlas, speckled with brilliant green pines and pisé hamlets camouflaged against the reddish earth.

Hats off to the French owners for their vision, in buying up and transforming this fertile valley outside Ouirgane. Any remaining niggles are firmly on their radar, food seems to be improving, and service (from over 20 staff) was faultless during our visit.

Highs

• A mini-paradise for nature-lovers, with local guides on hand, 3 circular walks from your front door, free mountain bikes and horse-riding nearby
• The garden suites are beautifully secluded and spacious, with their own sitting area and terrace
• The main reception building has a lively atmosphere, with Provençal-style bar, bustling restaurant, billiards, darts and a tented haima outside
• You're within an hour of Marrakech, yet a world away, at nearly 1000 metres altitude: cool in summer, occasionally snow-dusted in winter
• Don't be put off by the lack of air-con: thick stone walls and ceiling fans keep interiors cool, while wood-burning stoves keep them toasty in winter

Lows

• The older rooms are very simple; hot water can be unreliable
• The large communal areas give it a somewhat deserted feel in the daytime
• The unheated pool is tantalisingly chilly from November to March
• The rustic interiors – chunky wooden furniture and exposed stone walls – may not be to everyone's taste and can feel quite dark
• Avoid the coach groups who come for lunch on Tuesdays and Fridays!
• Breakfast could be improved