La Louviere

An elegant and relaxing country retreat in the gentle hills of southern Normandy, with fabulous food, gorgeous gardens and a heated outdoor pool

The approach to La Louvière is delightful. A long driveway sweeps past lime groves, before tapering out into a path that weaves its way through rambling roses and clematis to the ivy-framed front door. But what really caught our attention as we arrived at this little 18th-century manor, set just outside sleepy Saint-Denis-sur-Sarthon, were the enticing aromas of baking and wood smoke, and the wonderful welcoming party formed by smiling owners Alain and Isabelle, their dog Venus, and Shadow the cat.

Stepping inside, we were told to make ourselves at home. It certainly wasn’t difficult: the couple run the B&B as an extension of their own house, without any hint of formality. The 5 cossetting bedrooms are decorated with rustic florals and personal heirlooms, fires flicker in the salons, and delicious dinners await in the candlelit dining room (the baking, it turned out, was an excellent pear crumble). In summer, life spills out to the fragrant gardens, where a heated pool, a tennis court and a fishing lake hide among clusters of trees and flowerbeds bursting with lavender. Beyond lie meadows, forests and some of the prettiest villages in France. It’s an enchanting slice of rural escapism - hard to fault, and even harder to leave.

Highs

• A handy location near the Normandy-Loire border - ideal for stopovers or as a romantic base for exploring Alençon, Le Mans and the beautiful Orne and Perche regions
• Great for families, too, with a laid-back ambiance, interconnecting rooms and an 8-acre garden to run around
• Charming, multi-lingual hosts, who are genuinely delighted to share their home; you feel as if you’re staying somewhere with real soul
• Isabelle’s cooking is lip-smackingly good. Expect breakfasts piled high with croissants and cakes, and dinners (available Tuesday-Saturday) made using fruit and veg from the garden
• Plenty of peaceful spots where you can unwind - lakeside deckchairs, hammocks swinging from trees, a shaded loggia by the pool

Lows

• You’ll need a car, especially as you’ll have to drive out for lunches, and for dinner on Sunday and Monday nights
• Some rooms (Aurélie’s Room, Yves’ Room and Françoise’s Room) have bathrooms which are private but not ensuite
• Credit cards aren’t accepted (and ATMs are few and far between in this part of France); make sure you bring plenty of cash
• TVs are provided on request only, though chances are you won't miss them
• It's closed annually from the end of November until the end of March