La Maison du Frene

An old stone townhouse crammed with contemporary art on the edge of the old town of Vence

Matisse lived in Vence and painted it repeatedly, while Soutine drew this actual house. Fitting, then, that this utterly beguiling home is packed with original works by all the best names. Owner Thierry grew up here, moved to Paris and became hairdresser to the stars of the 60s and 70s. Now he's back for the peace, and to enjoy his collection. Marvel at works by Hockney, Arman, Gilbert and George, pop-art, pastiches of Picasso and Lichtenstein, and a terrific canvas above the sofa by a local Hockney-trained artist. Beauty also filters up to the rooms: Marilyn screenprints above a black bed, gold ceramics, exquisite old oils. Mickey Mouse is gilt-framed on the wall of the terracotta-tiled staircase, a Rennie Macintosh chair waits halfway up, a candle chandelier hangs at the top. Red everywhere - walls, chairs, cushions, vases.

The beautiful exterior is the only understated part of the house, which stands opposite the contemporary art museum. Even breakfast cannot escape the artist’s touch - elegantly served on royal Limoges crockery and eaten under white painted beams.

Highs

• The stupendous salon – a private art gallery stuffed with sculptures, paintings, busts and abstract work – is a real jaw-dropper
• The suites are extremely plush
• Vence is a small town, not a big village; there’s lots to see, and some night life

Lows

• The price is high, but this is the Cote d’Azur, and the art makes this place very special
• No garden or pool
• You’ll be in and out of the car park; it’s not too expensive, but it can mount up
• The old town can get pretty busy in high season