Lahuen-Co

A stunningly situated lodge and natural spa in the remotest reaches of the Argentine Lake District

Arriving is thrilling: head west from Junín de los Andes along a winding track and in an hour you’ve left the steppe behind, and ultramarine lakes glint way below the road, glimpsed through tall coihue beeches and prolific bamboo in lush Valdivian rainforest. Or arrive by boat across Lake Huechulafquen, the perfect cone of Lanín volcano reflected in calm navy blue waters.

Either way, Lahuen-Co is quite unexpected: poised at the end of a remote forested valley in Lanín National Park, a serene Zen-style lodge built of wood and glass so as to merge into the landscape. Step onto the terrace, breathe in sweet air and the silence, and gasp. Below you, rising up through the silvery pampas grasses, are plumes of white steam. Thermal waters have bubbled up here for centuries (the name means ‘miraculous waters’), and ancient civilisations marked the spot with monkey puzzle trees. Now, though, guests lie back in a glass cathedral of a spa and soak in natural pools, submit to expert shiatsu massage and eat a fine dinner before strolling back under a sky crammed with stars to a cosy immaculate bedroom. In untouched magnificent wilderness, this is a retreat by stealth for those who want to hike and kayak in stunning landscapes by day, and return to good food and a fine sauvignon blanc. Bliss.

Highs

• A rare opportunity to be in the middle of untouched nature, and still be deliciously comfortable
• The spa is excellent: a series of 4 thermal pools in the Japanese Onsen sequence, Vichy showers, outdoor heated pool and top-notch treatments
• Good food: local trout, Patagonian lamb, imaginative vegetarian dishes, and exquisite homemade tarts at tea time. Great wine list, too
• Multilingual staff are kind and attentive
• Stunning walks in all directions: enough variety for a week. Guides will gladly accompany you

Lows

• Not for those seeking modern diversions: no TVs or phones in the rooms, but WiFi throughout
• Staff are extremely kind but might be inexperienced. Don’t expect 5-star service and you won’t be disappointed
• Expensive at first glance, though all meals and lots of activities included
• A mission to get to, but that’s half the point
• The path from lodge to main building can be slightly unnerving at night but it is marked with white sticks and torches are provided