La Residence d'Angkor

Soft elegance abounds at this colonial-style hotel, offering peace in the city, and comfort and hospitality in abundance

La Résidence hits all the right notes: lush tropical gardens, delightful airy rooms, loungers encircling a cool pool and colonial architecture that fits snugly in its place. It stands across the road from the Siem Reap river with the old town a short stroll west, but you might want to stay put – this is one of those intoxicating hotels that pulls off the rarest trick; you simply feel happy padding about its tranquil corridors and paths.

Skip over a ribbon of water that wraps around the main house in Japanese style and you enter a world of wood. An inviting lounge/bar spills out onto the swimming pool terrace, while an air-conditioned restaurant already slips into the garden in clement weather. Most of the bedrooms horseshoe around the swimming pool, some with garden views, others overlooking the river or pool. All are hugely restful and come with a private terrace or balcony. As for Angkor, guides and cars can be arranged, so pull yourself away from the tranquillity and explore its endless majesty. Brilliant.

Highs

• This is a big hotel that feels like a small hotel: there’s a lively feel to the place, but it remains wonderfully intimate
• The saltwater pool surrounded by lush gardens and soaring palms is a pretty good spot in the middle of a city
• Big bedrooms are a treat: spoiling, elegant and hard to leave
• A 7-minute walk to nightlife and restaurants, a 10-minute walk to Angkor Wat
• Fabulous new La Residence and Spa Suites and Spa open October 2009

Lows

• River rooms may get a bit of noise. We heard nothing and they are set back from the road, but light sleepers may want to take a Garden room, just in case
• The exchange rate at reception isn't too good; get your money changed in Siem Reap
• Views from some rooms are obscured by dense vegetation