Le Jardin des Sens

Lush gardens, a shimmering pool and two Michelin stars at this heavenly restaurant with rooms

A huge red curtain falls across the entrance to the restaurant; it's there by design - this is ‘gastronomic theatre’. The restaurant - wrapped in glass, swimming in light and surrounded by idyllic water gardens - is the stage. Jacques and Laurent (twins and co-conspirators) have two Michelin stars for their sublime cooking and conduct a small orchestra of 25 cooks, while smartly-dressed restaurant staff wait on your every need. It’s a fanfare of flavours, one of the brothers is always in the kitchen, and dinner here is a Montpellier highlight.

Those who stay get the best of two indulging worlds. The garden - fruit-laden orange trees, old olives, trimmed lavender, a scented shrubbery - is terraced with blond stone and holds a nicely private pool. You can spurn the big city attractions, hide away under a smart white parasol, top up the tan and recharge your batteries for another feast in the restaurant (don’t miss the Champagne sorbet). Rooms mostly come in red and are more than adequate; two of the ground-floor rooms have French windows onto the terrace and gardens.

Highs

• The heavenly food - don't forget to book a table for dinner
• The lovely garden and pool
• The grand architecture, vibrant cafés and flea markets of Montpellier, an ancient university city

Lows

• The bathrooms are average
• If you stay on a Sunday or Monday, the restaurant will be closed. However, the brothers own a second restaurant in town and you can eat there
• The gardens are small (but perfectly formed)
• The exterior and neighbourhood location are unremarkable