Levendis Estate

Remote retreat on Odysseus' mythical island, where nature-lovers, honeymooners and frazzled families escape to recharge

Homeland of Homer's exiled hero, rugged little Ithaca remains surprisingly untarnished by tourism. Yachts cruise the azure coves, but few visitors venture into the lush hills that conceal ancient ruins and dramatic hiking trails. Nestled on a wooded slope with stunning sea views, Levendis is a cross between an elite gated retreat and a homespun organic farm. 4 modest cottages are camouflaged among terraced gardens perfumed with sage, rosemary and thyme; stone steps lead to an infinity pool straight out of the Hollywood hills. Only the chime of church bells punctuates the peace.

When Spero and Mal built the estate in 1997, their dream was to share the natural beauty and bounty with others. They run the place with easy-going grace, despite the gritty labour involved in maintaining the organic orchards and olive groves. Even the toiletries are home-blended and homeo-pathic. Water comes straight from Kalamos spring; allegedly, those who drink from it will always be happy, healthy and return to Ithaca. Perhaps that’s why over half the guests are regulars.

Highs

• Overwhelming sense of escapism the moment you enter the gated estate
• Moonlit midnight swims in a glittering infinity pool above a cliff-backed bay
• Seasonal organic goodies plucked straight from the orchards
• Alfresco aromatherapy massage in a shady glade to a soundtrack of lapping waves and whirring cicadas
• Personal, relaxed service and insider tips courtesy of Greek Australian owners Marilyn (Mal), Spero and their kids make you feel instantly at home

Lows

• Interiors are rustic rather than luxurious
• Unruly toddlers in neighbouring cottages might disturb the peace – be sure to ask who else is staying when you book
• It's not cheap, and there are charges for breakfast, beach towels, and baby toys; but on the other hand rates do include car hire, transfers and fresh produce