L'Hotel in Pietra

Beautiful boutique 12th-century church conversion, overlooking Matera’s warren-like, ravine-edged Sassi Barisano quarter

Perched high up in the sassi (Matera’s old town quarters, built into and over caves), a converted 12th-century Benedictine church houses L’Hotel in Pietra, which opened in January 2008. The reception-breakfast room occupies the sometime nave, with soaring ceiling and looping tall arches.

A mix of French, Italian and Brazilian furniture decorates, lovely solid pieces arranged with a pared-down simplicity. Walls are pale exposed stone, a warm gold. Modernist touches marry well with the antiquity, such as large low, wood-edged double beds and thick glass partitions.

All of the characterful 8 rooms are different, imaginative conversions of the unusual spaces the old buildings provide. Most have extraordinary views, too - over the town and across to the cathedral. The peace is palpable: the sassi lanes are too narrow and stepped for vehicles. A remarkable place to stay in a remarkable city.

Highs

• Beautiful, pared-down design, with antiques and carved-wood furniture set against sandstone arches, cave interiors and thick glass
• Laid-back relaxed atmosphere
• The sense of having discovered a gem
• Utter tranquillity – the sassi are interconnected via tiny lanes unsuitable for traffic
• Owners are proud of their hotel and eager to please

Lows

• One of the singles (room 1001) is extremely tiny and snug - but the room has a good view
• Not for the athletically challenged – most rooms have steep or uneven stairs and some have ladders, plus there are steps to reach the entrance of the hotel
• Parking is 300m away. Arranging to have your luggage transferred in advance may seem a hassle, but is the nature of staying in the sassi