Little Swallows

Pelion, Greece

Activities

  • Wander through the cobbled village lanes admiring the imposing stone mansions, then laze on the hotel terrace with its mountain and sea views

  • Discover the area on foot: there's a fantastic hike from Pinakates across the high, beech-cloaked spine to the scattered hamlets of Tsangarada (5-6 hours, buy Cicerone's "The Mountains of Greece" for directions); and another easier one from Milies to Xourihti/Tsangarada following the old mulepath (4 hours, ask locally and follow red waymarks)

  • Drive or walk down to the sheltered beaches of the Pagasitic Gulf: Kala Nera is the nearest (10km by road, 5km by lovely path), Afissos (16km by road) is popular and sandy, with watersports; tiny Lefokastro has a peaceful bay and picturesque fish restaurant

  • But the beaches with the most turquoise waters are on the Aegean side - try Milopotamos, with its famous rock arch, sandy Horefto below Zagora, or the magically enclosed cove of Fakistra, a short walk from the end of the road below Tsangarada

  • Visit Pelion's pretty stone-and-slate villages: Milies (6km) is touristy but worth a wander for its fabulously frescoed church, famous library and speciality cheese pies

  • Vizitsa (3km) is even more popular, with its lovely restored mansions, cobbled streets and shady central square

  • From the station at Milies a narrow gauge railway takes tourists on a 2-hour trip to Ano Lehonia at weekends, chugging through olive groves and over viaducts with panoramic seaviews

  • You could rent a mountain bike from Kala Nera and explore the myriad forestry tracks, with the help of Anavasi's excellent 1:25,000 map

  • Come in winter for gentle skiing at Agriolefkes, 1 hour's drive away: 3 lifts and 3 easy/moderate runs around 1500m in altitude

  • Vibrant Volos (25km) is the traditional mezze capital of Greece - but its nightlife is thoroughly modern

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Bird watching
  • Cycling
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse riding
  • Mountain biking
  • Sailing
  • Snorkelling
  • Snow sports
  • Swimming
  • Traditional cultures
  • Wildlife viewing
  • Windsurfing
Save to favouritesPrintMailLittle SwallowsThe mountainous peninsula of Pelion is blessedly off the tourist track. Dense with deciduous woodland, lush with apple orchard, olive grove and low shrub maquis, the area is a walker's dream. It is also home to 24 well-preserved villages, some of which are listed and undergoing gentrification. Pinakates, once truly remote, still unspoiled, is our favourite. Minutes from the cobbled market square is Ta Helidonakia: 'Little Swallows'. In 2002 it was a crumbling ruin; now, after a sympathetic restoration using traditional materials and methods, the imposing 19th-century mansion has opened its arms to guests. Each of the [r:GR058:bedrooms] is named after a Greek god and, we are told, has its own essentially Greek decoration. Flemish antique beds, imported by the Belgian owners, add character. In summer, breakfast is served on a terrace with a view - all the way to the enclosed seas of the Pagasitic Gulf. The hotel has two good seating areas, one with a wood-burner; the village has a clutch of tavernas.

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a bottle of local wine or tsipouro

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