Little Swallows

Eating

This is a breakfast-only guesthouse, although afternoon snacks are available. On sunny days you eat on the terrace with the wonderful view. If the weather is cool - or if it's raining: it sometimes does here - there's a rustic-walled breakfast room in the converted stables; this also has a real fire for cosy evenings. We also like the look of the sitting room on the top floor with its line up of Greek windows and sweep of wooden floor. At one end is a long varnished pine table for board games and cards (bring your own), at the other, four leather armchairs around a table.

Breakfasts are feasts of cheeses, yogurts, honeys and charcuterie, and promise a different platter of pastries, waffles and sweet Greek delicacies each day.

If you're happy with simple Greek food (lots of grills, pies and delicious vegetables), the village's tavernas will fit the bill; we hear good things of the Drossia. You'll find a plane-shaded square with a string of cafés in almost every village; neighbouring Vizitsa has one of the prettiest, and Arhontiko taverna comes recommended. For fish dishes you should head for the coast: we enjoyed the simple seafood grills of Giorgos in Malaki (seasonal; tel 24280 94238), whose tables stand practically in the water, and the fish restaurant in Lefokastro on the waterfront road, but there's plenty more choice in Kala Nera, Afissos etc.

If you're self-catering in the studio, which has a simple kitchenette (2-ring hob/mini-oven, small fridge, sink), you'll find two groceries in the village for the basics, and a bakery. For further supplies, head for Milies (6km). Breakfast is included in the price.