Llys Meddyg

A gastro restaurant with cosy rooms, close to the sea in stunning Pembrokeshire National Park: ideal for foodies, families and walkers

I firmly believe the sun always shines on Llys Meddyg. I say this because it rained for the entirety of our drive from Bristol to Wales, but then, as if on cue, the sun popped out as we drove into the charming town of Newport (Pembrokeshire; not to be confused with the Newport near Cardiff). Set on the high street, this former coaching inn was lovingly brought into the 21st-century by owners Ed and Louise Sykes a few years ago. After having children, they decided to return to their Welsh roots, and snapped up Llys Meddyg to create a relaxed seaside haven with 8 lovely rooms, a separate converted barn for 2-4, and a first-rate restaurant. Natural materials abound - slate, wooden furniture, seagrass flooring - and handwoven woolly Welsh blankets provide colourful warmth.

Food is at the heart of the operation, and we found it exceptional - locally caught seafood, organic veg and meat reared close by. There's a cosy cellar bar for a pre-dinner drink; a beautiful Kitchen Garden room for summertime eating, and a wood-fired oven for casual pizzas. Families are well catered for, and you can even bring the dog. Cosy in winter, bright and breezy in summer - and a warm welcome all year round.

Highs

• Truly excellent food, including hearty breakfasts - smoked haddock with poached eggs, fresh fruit pancakes with honey
• Homespun rooms which achieve that alchemy of being cosy yet light and airy, with great showers and huge bathtubs
• Set within Pembrokeshire National Park - beautiful beaches, woods and coastal hikes on your doorstep
• Well-equipped for families travelling with small children, and babysitting can be arranged
• Newport is one of the nicest towns in Pembrokeshire and there are several other lovely cafes and pubs nearby

Lows

• The restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday nights
• The garden bedrooms may be noisy in summer or if there's a function in the Kitchen Garden room
• Service can be patchy; not ideal given the prices
• Breakfast is 8-9.30am Mon-Sat; a little early for that weekend lie-in (though it is later on Sundays)
• Dinner's not cheap, but it's well worth every penny, and the wine list is very reasonable
• If staying in the 'Room on the Hill', bear in mind that you'll need to drive 3 miles for dinner (but breakfast is delivered in a hamper)