Locanda Palazzone

A medieval hostel with minimalist, modern interiors and divine views, set admist green vineyards and rolling hills

The once dilapidated now beautifully restored palazzone has reopened its doors to travellers - not to the pilgrims of old but to 21st-century seekers of tranquility and pastoral beauty. It's a sybaritic set up, a family-run winery and rural hotel; you will eat, drink and dream well. Owners Lodovico and Patrizia are extremely welcoming, and generous with their time. And while the building's austere 14th-century beauty remains, modernity takes a bow with elegant interiors and a beautiful pool.

Imagine a dramatic church-like space, its walls spanned by 4 stone arches, its floor topped by slabs of stone. At one end is a black stair, in the centre a state-of-the-art glass and metal lift; wicker lampshades hang above the dining table, a vast sofa faces the fireplace... a calm, homely room that sets the tone for the 7 suites upstairs. Nothing is busy or overdone. To cap it all, the setting - surrounded by chestnut woods and vine-braided hills and just 15 minutes from Orvieto - is one of incomparable beauty. We loved it.

Highs

• Extremely peaceful - as you lie by the pool, all you hear is birdsong
• Your friendly, informative hosts; you are welcomed into their home, and service is excellent
• Within a stone's throw of Orvieto, one of Umbria's most beautiful and historic hilltowns
• Superb food; the creative chef Masa fuses local ingredients and international inspiration
• Winery producing Palazzone - one of Umbria's best labels; enjoy tastings with your dinner

Lows

• Sound carries between rooms, particularly when people walk up and down their stairs
• Dinner is quite expensive - but it was the best meal we had in our 10-day tour of Tuscany
• If you don't want dinner in, you'll need to drive 10 minutes to the nearest small town
• Gets booked up way in advance for summer; come in autumn when rates are lower, the countryside beautiful and the weather still fine