Maison Perumal

A lovely colonial-era house in the seldom-explored Tamil quarter, where staff treat you like royalty

Pondicherry (now known as Puducherry) is famed for two things: its 17th-century French colonial past, which has left an architectural legacy and the feeling of being in a Provençal town on the bay of Bengal; and its Sri Aurobindo ashram, which draws yogic devotees from around the world. Most people don't know about its Tamil past, or about the Tamil quarter where Maison Perumal stands, and that's a good thing. When you arrive after a 3-hour journey from Chennai, it feels like you've found a jewel in the dust.

Once a registry office, the building was lovingly restored by CG Hearth (the brains behind SwaSwara) to create an elegant 10-room hotel with the feel of a private dignitary's house. In the morning, the sun shines through stained glass to create extravagant patterns on the whitewashed walls; inside, sepia-toned pictures tell of the past and vibrant silk cushions lie on elaborately hand-carved wooden beds.

You're walking distance from central Pondicherry's main sights and the exceptional staff bend over backwards to help with every need. We haven't visited yet, but we've heard such good reports that we wanted to let you in on it before we do.

Highs

• The beautiful building - its Tamil personality comes through in its courtyards and verandahs; the fluted pilaster and arched windows give it a French charm
• The excellent staff - warm, courteous and happy to cater for your every whim
• The ambiance - charming and elegant. It's like being a guest in a friend's home, if that friend is a 17th-century Tamil dignitary
• The location - it's a short walk to everywhere in Pondy, including the beachfront promenade and market
• The super-fresh Keralan food, with an emphasis on seafood

Lows

• The bathrooms are small and not particularly luxurious
• Not much storage space for unpacking
• Street noise might occasionally disturb you, but only occasionally