Mama Ruisa

Elegant French-owned B&B with pool in bohemian Santa Teresa with views of Sugarloaf Mountain and Guanabara Bay

Up in the hills of Santa Teresa there's an alternative scene to Rio’s beach life. Here a more colourful village feel exists - one favoured by artists and musicians and quite a contrast to Copacabana’s 1960s tower blocks. You're also closer to the famous Lapa nightlife than if you stay down by the beaches. French owner Jean-Michel Ruis picked a spot right in the heart of this boho district to turn what was once an aristocrat's colonial home into a one-off 6-bedroom boutique B&B.

From its elegant wrought-iron verandas you can breakfast with views of Sugarloaf Mountain. Its stained glass ceiling, tall wooden shutters, garden and pool all remain intact. Bedrooms now gain from crisp French fabrics and mod cons, but scattered memorabilia maintain a link with the past to when Flying Down to Rio was the film of the moment. With tall ceilings there's a bright airy feel. The living room’s enormous and at night a statue of Lemonja (Goddess of the Sea) lights up to glittering effect.

Highs

• Comfortable, spacious rooms elegantly decorated with a dash of French style
• You're in the heart of colourful Santa Teresa with its cobbled streets and authentic Brazilian restaurants
• You're closer to Rio's best nightlife in Lapa than if you stay by the beach
• Convenient location from which to take a trip to see Christ the Redeemer
• Personal service from the charming owner, who can advise on Rio's quirkier, less touristy haunts
• Relaxing walled garden and swimming pool

Lows

• You're not on the beach, but you can reach Ipanema within about 15 minutes
• There's occasional traffic noise during day, but it quietens down at night
• Recent reviews point to some general maintenance issues with some bathroom fixtures and fittings but we are advised these are being addressed
• You'll need to take a taxi to go into town - but taking the old Bondinho (tram) can be fun