Masseria Fumarola

A rambling farm turned tranquil trulli hotel, surrounded by olive and fruit trees; family run, but with a 5-star feel

The Valle d’Itria is one of the prettiest areas of Puglia, the sun-splashed heel of the Italian boot. Its olive groves hide ancient fortified farms and sugar-cube houses, and whitewashed towns spill down its rolling hills towards vineyards and orchards.

This is the bucolic setting for Masseria Fumarola, a traditional house topped with 11 trulli (the cone-shaped constructions so iconic of this part of the world). Once a working farm run by the grandmother of present owner Anna, and converted into a hotel by Anna’s architect father, this family affair is a rustic yet sumptuous retreat. The 14 rooms and suites, spread across the main building and a scattering of outhouses, are soothing and spacious, with sitting areas, flat-screen TVs and fireplaces under domed ceilings. Outside are terraces encircled by chestnut and olive trees, a pool that’s large enough for laps, and an organic garden where fruit and vegetables are grown for the restaurant. It’s a stylish slice of rural Italian life, a place to savour simple delights: dappled sunlight on your skin, a poolside siesta in the shade of a prickly-pear tree, a glass of local wine at sunset, and the chatter of birds from the masseria’s 6 hectares of private woodland.

Highs

• A beautiful and sensitive renovation, with bags of character - we particularly liked the lofty stone arches of the Trullo Sovrano suite, and the sunken sleeping area in Palmento 2, where grapes were once crushed
• Fantastic food, served in the farm’s former manger hall or outside on the candlelit terrace; produce is local, and the desserts are divine
• A tranquil and intimate ambiance, ideal for romantic escapes
• Wonderfully secluded, yet an easy drive from Brindisi or Bari airport and within day-tripping distance of dazzling Ostuni, one of Puglia's prettiest hilltowns
• Helpful and unobtrusive service, with a personal feel

Lows

• It could be too peaceful for some, with little to do in the immediate vicinity other than laze by the pool
• Dinners are a set menu, though dietary requirements can be catered for
• You’ll need a car, and if you fancy a change of scene one evening you’ll have to drive to the nearest restaurants (4km away in the small town of Martina Franca)
• The nearest beach is a 40-minute drive away
• We've had feedback that the masseria lacks atmosphere when not full