Matemwe

Stylishly rustic cottages and dive school, romantically set on sea-washed rocks alongside a white sand beach

This is a sublimely peaceful beachside resort which combines delicious food, stylish rooms, ecological principles, great diving, 2 pools and superlative service. Which is why it has become, over 20 years of organic growth, the most popular beach lodge on Zanzibar, and a haven for honeymooners (indeed, our Editor Liz came here for hers in 2010).

Backing onto bougainvillea-filled gardens and facing the endless Indian Ocean, the spacious thatched cottages are secluded and very comfortable, without trying too hard. Electricity comes from the sun, air conditioning from the sea breeze. A sandy stroll away is a palm-fringed beach, busy with fishermen on their outriggers. Out to sea lies Mnemba atoll, which offers the best diving and snorkelling around. And the weather is sunny even by local standards. So what hasn’t it got? Television. Telephones. Crowds. Noise (other than the muted roar of the fringing reef). Stress (other than timing your swim to coincide with high tide). And space for anyone who leaves it too late.

Highs

• Swinging in the double hammock on your very private terrace, to the sound of the ocean
• Excellent food in the beachside restaurant - imaginative salads and fresh-from-the-ocean lobster and tuna
• The service is delightful; nothing is too much trouble and staff soon know you by name
• Some of the best diving and snorkelling in the world at Mnemba reef, which is just offshore
• There are 4 romantic, very spacious retreat suites, set at the far end of the property with their own beach

Lows

• Sea-swimming is tricky at low tide (a long walk out, over rocky ground) but there are 2 lovely pools
• It's very remote: not a good base for touring, but then neither are most places in Zanzibar
• The surf can be very noisy at night; bring ear plugs
• Crabs and other small beasties occasionally enter the rooms
• There was lots of seaweed on the beach when we stayed and it was choppy to swim, but this is seasonal (most likely in June, October and November)