Monte Velho Nature Resort

A colourful hilltop retreat in a peaceful natural park with the fabulous beaches of the wild west coast waiting below

You’re in the Costa Vincentina National Park, where south-western Europe sinks into the Atlantic. You’ll find the odd village, but that’s about it: no resorts, no development, just mile after mile of forested ridge. Staggering beaches combine with dunes, cliffs and caves to offer a sense of real wilderness. Small colonies of surfers hang out in the water and ride the waves, so join them or watch with awe.

Two kilometres up a dirt track atop a hill, you find Monte Velho, wrapped in 50 hectares of farmland, lost to the world. All you hear is nature at work: bees buzzing in the lavender, donkeys braying in the fields. The scent of spruce fills the air, imperious views stretch for miles, a clean sweep across rippling hills to distant Monchique. Fittingly, Monte Velho doesn’t try to be too fancy. Instead, a cool rustic-chic: bright and colourful rooms, French windows that let in the view, a wood-burner in the sitting room, hammocks and breakfast on a shaded terrace. Head south to Sagres, a town with a rich seafaring history; all the great explorers stopped here before sailing off to discover the New World.

Highs

• It’s remote, peaceful and lost to the world: wild beauty on west coast
• Fabulous beaches, rarely crowded, excellent for surfing (beginners will appreciate the surf school)
• Lovely walk through hills down to the beach (but uphill on the way back); the lazy can ride donkeys instead
• Great for families: kids can explore the hills on donkeys or mountain bikes, adults on quad bikes
• It’s utterly unpretentious, nicely informal and you’re up in the hills, so it’s cool at night
• Excellent eco-credentials: it's largely solar and wind powered

Lows

• There’s no pool, and the sea can be cold, but the beaches are gloriously empty
• The better restaurants are a little distance away (although there's a good one 5 minutes walk)
• It’s quiet - if you want night life, you’ll have to drive