Mountain Beiras
Why go?
If you want incredible scenery, fresh mountain air and a taste of
traditional Portugal, head inland to the the Beiras region.
Relatively untouched by tourism, this glacial area is stunningly
beautiful. The Serra da Estrela mountains are the highest in
Portugal, with the peaks reaching up to 2000m, and the mighty
Mondego River flows down through the valley. It's a haven for
climbing and hiking, with trails leading past natural lagoons,
through pine-scented forests and up, to give stupendous panoramic
views of Spain and Portugal. In winter, it's where the Portugese
come to ski, yet the region is far from commercialised - quite the
opposite.
It's roughly divided into two areas - Beira Alta (upper) and Beira
Baixa (lower). The higher region is more verdant, dotted with
vineyards, fruit orchards and pine forests, and this is home to the
medieval hilltop towns, such as Guarda, Viseu, Covilhã and
Almeida. Many were strongholds in Portugal's wars of independence
and as a result, they feature crumbling ancient ruins and
18th-century fortresses and castles. Their livelihood is
principally farming and agriculture, with markets selling pungent
cheeses (the quejo de serra is a must), spicy sausages, wool
textiles and the famous Dao wine. Locals are friendly and if you're
lucky enough to visit during their fiestas (of which there are
many!), you'll be encouraged to take part - in Celuricoda this
includes a competition where people climb a greasy pole to retrieve
a flagon of wines…
The lower Beira Baixa region is more remote and unexplored. Based
on the valley floor of the Serra da Estrella, its dusty landscape
is strewn with vast granite boulders and tiny basic villages. Their
agricultural lifestyle is harsh and poor by European standards, yet
its charm lies in its simplicity. It's worlds away from the glitz
and glamour of Lisbon, and seems almost untouched by the 20th
century: donkeys work in the fields and lines of seeds lie drying
in the sun. Whilst places to stay are few and far between, driving
through the area is fascinating, and there's heaps to see.
This is also home to bigger towns that are worth a proper visit:
Monsanto is Portugal's most ancient settlement, with its houses and
roads carved out of huge rocks; the capital of the province,
Castelo Branco, boasts 12-century walls and the atmospheric
Idanha-a-Velha is brimming with Roman relics.