Movie Colony Hotel

One of Palm Springs' best-kept secrets: a landmark mid-century Modern hotel with a pool, small spa and easygoing vibe, just steps from downtown

When Swiss architect Albert Frey arrived in Palm Springs in 1934, the Hollywood party was in full swing. But Frey was dazzled by the desert - 354 days of startling sunshine and a wall of mountains soaring 9,000 feet up to an achingly blue sky. While Golden Age stars hosted soirees in their Movie Colony mansions, Frey was mixing a brand new cocktail of desert-friendly glass, corrugated metal and stitched canvas for his groundbreaking San Jacinto Hotel. Several renovations later, the hotel (renamed for its proximity to the Movie Colony neighbourhood) remains a classic example of Frey’s Desert branch of the mid-century Modern aesthetic that flourished in Palm Springs.

Today, it's a stylish enclave (authentic furnishings include Wassily sling chairs and moulded plastic rockers) with an intimate vibe. Shimmering-white poolside townhouses and shuttered casita-style rooms cuddle up to tranquil outdoor living areas, dressed in swaying palms, bougainvillea and cactus. By day, soak up the quiet, hike in the desert or borrow a cruiser bike and explore downtown. At sunset, sip complimentary wines in the courtyard, where fire dances on a mound of glass and Rat Pack-era tunes transport you back to the 1940s.

Highs

• A must for architecture buffs; renovations were blessed by Frey, who also designed PS's city hall and aerial tram station. Original construction is visible in the linen room
• Pop culture lovers should book #29 where rocker Jim Morrison leapt from the second-storey balcony into the pool in 1968
• Friendly service and relaxed sociable vibe: BYO alcohol or help-yourself to soft drinks; a complimentary happy hour every night
• Spacious rooms have private outdoor patios or curtained balconies with mountain views
• Just a block from Palm Canyon Drive - so an easy walk to restaurants, entertainment and superb antiques, and great mid-Century Modern shops

Lows

• Adults only (age 21 and older), and only 2 guests per room or townhouse
• No restaurant on-site - an internet-based company provides room service for limited hours, or you can walk to downtown restaurants
• No desks in rooms and WiFi is sketchy in some areas of the hotel
• Front desk closes at 7pm; if you’re arriving later, call ahead for instructions
• Recent reports of some wear and tear