Muxima

Go bush in Portugal at this colourful eco-retreat, close to some of the country's finest beaches

Africa runs deep in the veins of Jorge and Sofia. Having worked there for many years on humanitarian projects, when they named their forest retreat they took inspiration from the spirit of the continent: Muxima is Kimbundu, an Angolan dialect, for 'heart'. It could not have been more aptly named. This is a place that is infused with the owners' care, compassion and genuine eco leanings: one from the heart, to be sure.

Rustic and rural, Muxima's twin single-storey casas are wrapped within a 28-hectare strand of cork and eucalyptus forest. The air is beautifully scented by the trees and the entire retreat is accessed via a winding, sandy track. When we arrived for our 2012 revisit, we were greeted with boundless energy from Zora and Cora, the dogs, and then with an easy, gentle smile from Sofia. All of this sets the tone just perfectly: Muxima eschews hotel-like uniformity in favour of the homespun and the organic. Expect serenity, a big colourful room, a child-friendly ethic and an opportunity to really get back in touch with nature.

Highs

• An eco-retreat with a genuine 'bush' feel - the eco-swimming pool comes complete with dragonflies, lily pads and even frogs
• A great place for families; with 2 children of their own, Sofia and Jorge understand children's needs and parents' expectations
• As serene and bucolic a setting as you could hope to find, yet an easy drive from wonderful beaches
• The chance for kids, and adults, to look to the forest and the beach for entertainment, rather than to TV
• Great breakfasts held in an open-air casita with stacks of local and homemade goodies

Lows

• Not for those seeking luxury items: no iPod docks or flatscreen TVs, and WiFi in the guest lounge only. Of course, this will be a plus for some
• Breakfast is the only meal on offer: you'll need to head down to Aljezur for other meals or self-cater if you're in one of the suites
• Don't expect instant service but do count on TLC from your hosts
• Reduced window openings are cool in summer but make the bedrooms quite dark