Muxima

Go bush in Portugal at this colourful eco-retreat, close to some of the country's finest beaches

Africa runs deep in the veins of Jorge and Sofia. Having worked there for many years in humanitarian projects, when they named their forest retreat they took inspiration from the spirit of the continent: Muxima is Kimbundu, an Angolan dialect, for 'heart'. It could not have been more aptly named: this is a place that is infused with the owners' care, compassion and genuine eco leanings: one from the heart, to be sure.

Wrapped round by a 28-hectare strand of cork and eucalyptus forest, you reach Muxima's twin single-storey guest houses by way of a winding, sandy track. I was greeted by a quizzical look from Stripey the donkey and then an easy, gentle smile from Sofia. It set the tone just perfectly: this is a place that eschews hotel-like uniformity in favour of the homespun and the organic. Expect serenity, a big colourful room, a child-friendly ethic and an opportunity to really get back in touch with nature.

Highs

• A great place for families: with 2 young kids of their own, Sofia and Jorge understand children's needs and parents' expectations
• As serene and bucolic a setting as you could hope to find, yet an easy drive from wonderful beaches
• A genuine 'bush' feel, which is right in synch with Muxima's African slant
• The chance for kids, and adults, to look to the forest and the beach for entertainment, rather than to TV
• Great breakfasts with stacks of local and homemade goodies

Lows

• Reduced window openings are an effective foil to the sizzling summers but make the bedrooms quite dark
• Breakfast is the only meal on offer: you'll need to head down to Aljezur for other meals or self-cater if you're in a suite
• Don't expect instant service but do count on TLC from your hosts