Neeleshwar Hermitage

A beautifully calm retreat with a fabulous spa on the undeveloped North Keralan coast

Over 4 years in the making, this place finally opened in late 2008 and by all accounts it's been well worth the wait. A blend of health retreat and hotel on the unspoilt and tourist-free northern coast of Kerala, it's serene and stylish; a place to rejuvenate your body and spirit and feel 'still'. The ethos? 'To start the rest of your life anew'.

Just 16 thatched cottages sit amongst 12 acres of lush gardens filled with frangipani and banana trees, coconut groves and glorious hibiscus flowers. Built according to traditional Keralan Vastu principles, the whole site faces east and the rising sun. Endangered sea turtles hatch their eggs on the beach and rare birds flit overhead; everything is in harmony with nature and Neeleshwar's eco principles are spot on. Spend your days in the Ayurvedic spa, doing yoga or learning to meditate, and in the evening watch the sun sink over the horizon and feel at one with your surroundings. Neeleshwar is the God of Transformation - let yourself go.

Highs

• The first 'luxury' hotel in northern Kerala, this opens up miles of unspoilt coastline to the adventurous traveller
• It's only 200m from a beautiful beach with swimmable sea
• There's a huge infinity pool, with comfortable seating all around
• The charming and friendly staff will welcome you with garlands and ice-cold coconut juice
• There's a unique cultural programme of lectures, concerts and guided tours of local temples

Lows

• It's a mission to get to - an internal flight, then a 2.5 hour car journey - but that's half the point
• We've received mixed feedback on the service; it's cheerful, but some feel too laid-back
• This is a fairly isolated spot; the nearest shops and restaurants are 4km away
• The beach is public, so people do walk past and look in
• The seafood restaurant, though delicious, is expensive - but there's cheaper vegetarian fare available