Penang & Pangkor
Why go?
PENANG
Penang actually consists of the island (a bit smaller than
Langkawi) and a small strip of land including Butterworth on the
Malaysian mainland, connected by a bridge over the Melacca Straits.
On approach from the airport, it looks like a slightly scruffier,
stretched version of Singapore, with undulating, car-friendly,
tree-shaded roads and bland condos rising into the grey skies. But
don’t be put off: there’s much more to the island than
immediately meets the eye.
The island's jewel is - surprisingly - its main town and historic
trading post, Georgetown. Home to half of the island's 1
million population, it's a bustling and multicultural place: a true
melting pot of colonial, Chinese, Malay and Indian cultures and
cuisines which has been awarded World Heritage status. Stroll the
streets and pass (often crumbling) colonial villas, street markets
and Buddhist temples in close succession.
The town makes a great base, as it also allows you to dip into the
sea and jungle if you want. You can visit Buddhist temples,
Botanical Gardens or the cool retreat of Penang Hill, 830m above
sea level. Talking of sea level, you'll find plenty of
beaches - not as idyllic as Langkawi's, for sure, but they
do the job: soft sand, warm sea and a backing of casuarina or
almond trees. At the popular ones like Batu Ferringhi, there's all
manner of watersports, while at the more secluded Monkey Beach you
can get a taste of the jungle - including macaques and fruit bats -
on a short trek.
PANGKOR
A 2-hour drive south of Penang plus a short boat hop from Lumut,
Pangkor Island sits off the northwest coast of the Malaysian
peninsula. Just 8km square, it’s a lush tropical haven with a
tranquil pace of life, and is best explored on a bike or moped.
Fishing is the main industry - you can visit boat-building
yards in Pangkor Town, and fishing villages line the east coast;
many of the traditional houses are built on stilts in the
sea.
The jungle interior is home to flying lemurs, civets, giant
butterflies and hornbills that are unique to the island. If you
don't stay in this area, take time for a day trip.
Beaches are Pangkor's main attraction though - golden sands,
emerald sea and the lagoon at Pasir Bogak, often described as
‘the biggest swimming pool in the world’. As you'd
expect, a host of watersports is on offer, and the snorkelling is
excellent.
Pangkor Town is a one-street stop, but it's a friendly,
laid-back place, with a couple of ornate temples (the Taoist Foo
Lin Kong Temple is beautiful), a Dutch Fort, and shops that
specialise in dried seafood.
Any Downsides?
PENANG
Built up and on a tropical island, Georgetown is always hot and
humid, with a spray of rain most days, which can make
sightseeing a strain – particularly since everything closes
at an orderly 5pm. And while the town has many virtues, making the
most of its seaside vistas is not one of them; finding somewhere
attractive to sit and look at the sea can take some effort. The
sleepy historic atmosphere and Malaysia’s pious public mores
mean that nightlife, too, tends to be soporific.
Penang's beaches are not the best: popular ones like Batu Ferringhi
- though great for watersports and people-watching - can get
crowded, and the sea can be dirty and sometimes
jellyfish-infested. For a more enjoyable swim, head to the secluded
Monkey Beach in the northwest or, better still, to Langkawi.
PANGKOR
Beaches are sometimes littered, despite them having
full-time litter collectors. In the jungle interior,
mosquitoes can be fierce so bring a good repellent.