Pestana Convento do Carmo

The most elegant place to stay in Salvador: a 16th-century convent, recently transformed into a stunning hotel

With the Convento do Carmo you get the best of both worlds - a hotel right on the doorstep of the city's most historic area, the Pelourinho, but also, once inside its doors, the ability to escape the area's overwhelmingly frenetic pace. Construction of the building started in 1586. Some 38 years later the Dutch surrender to the Portuguese was signed here, effectively ending Holland's claims on Brazil. It remained a convent till 2001.

The ground floor has 2 large, cool cloisters, one of which has a lovely pool in the middle and plenty of shaded loungers to escape the heat of the day. Around the other are scattered antiques, including old stocks and statues carved by slaves, used to barter their own freedom. Leading from here is the ornate reception, a small gym and spa with a sauna, and the superb (both in terms of food and service) restaurant. Head up in the lift towards the 79 bedrooms and you'll step out onto a wood-floored corridor laid with a thick red carpet. Look up to see the original high ceiling, which helps keep the building cool.

Highs

• A lovely and unusual historic building, tastefully converted
• High standards of comfort, including pillow menus and Egyptian cotton linens
• Generally large bedrooms, all elegantly decorated
• Prime location in the heart of Salvador's old city, on top of a hill
• The open-air bar in the second cloister is a perfect spot for a post-sightseeing caipirinha
• Wonderful and unusual restored religious art throughout

Lows

• You'd really have to nitpick to find any faults here at all. At a push, some may find the air of calm too tranquil
• Staff don't always have local information to hand, and the service, although friendly, can be patchy
• Some feel prices are expensive
• The surrounding area is a little edgy; take a taxi if you venture out at night