Pino di Loto

A gorgeous 4-suite hideaway set above the pretty fishing harbour of Kini on western Syros, with access to stunning beaches

When you think of Greece, chances are you picture a turquoise bay bobbing with fishing boats, a sandy beach with a couple of table-in-the-sand tavernas, a sprinkling of white-cube houses. One of them - perhaps at the top of the village - has some stylishly simple suites, maybe a patio with views of rugged hills and island-studded horizons; if you're lucky, there's a glistening azure pool flanked by oversized lanterns and inviting daybeds. The sun shines, there are boat trips to secluded coves, wild flowers in spring, fresh grilled fish at dinner, fresh squeezed OJ at breakfast.

Hidden above the pretty fishing village of Kini on the west coast of Syros, Pino di Loto ticks all these boxes, and a few more. First off, it's all done with a touch of class: the just-baked croissants and loose leaf green teas at breakfast, the net-draped four posters and salvaged mirror frames in the all-white suites, the generously tiered outdoor spaces (patios, pool-bar, pergola) - and all for a maximum of 8-16 guests. The service, from multilingual young Terezdina and her cultured parents (Mum did the interiors), is also a cut above; nothing is too much trouble. And Syros itself is something of a hidden gem: overlooked by most foreign visitors, though popular with Athenians in high summer. The northwest hides some of the Cyclades' loveliest little beaches, accessible by boat from Kini; Ermoupolis, too, is a real eye-opener, with its grandiose Neoclassical buildings, opulent churches and labyrinthine hill quarter of Ano Syros.

Highs

• With just 4 rooms and devoted family management, it feels just like staying with friends
• Hook up with 3 other couples and book the whole place for a heavenly house party
• Kids of all ages are welcome; each suite has a double sofabed as well as a kitchenette
• The sublime food at Armirikia, one of Kini's seaside restaurants, will make you rethink Greek cuisine
• Just an hour by boat from Mykonos (direct flights from Europe), not much more from Tinos, Paros and Naxos; or you can fly here from Athens in a little prop jet

Lows

• This is strictly a summer place: in April/October it can be chilly and there's no cosy indoor sitting area
• These are more like serviced apartments than hotel proper: the pool bar serves as reception, staff consists of Terezdina, her parents and a maid
• Syros is not Greece's prettiest island: the south is dotted with summer villas, there's a working shipyard - but the north is wonderfully wild, Kini is sweet and Ermoupolis is impressive
• It's not right on the beach but 5-10 mins' walk above Kini and Loto, both sandy and sheltered, with parasols and eateries