Marsolan, Gascony, France
On a high bluff overlooking the rolling hills and wooded valleys of
the Gers, Marsolan sees little passing traffic apart from pilgrims
following the Way of Saint James towards Santiago. The Pitron
family, seduced by the village's utter serenity and its ancient
stones, have fashioned their diminutive hotel in keeping with the
spirit of the place, taking an ancient occitan proverb as their
touchstone: Oun grits e y a, Diù qu'habite - 'Happy
the home where a cricket is to be heard'.
The original 18th-century chai was taken down stone by stone, then
reinvented by some of the region's finest craftsmen so as to
combine the building's original materials with top Noughties
creature comforts. Every last corner has manicured good looks yet
it retains an almost monastic feel thanks to things aural taking a
front seat: rooms have a state-of-the-art music system and on
arrival you'll be handed a CD of classical music. Lous Grits
eschews the mundane in favour of inner nourishment and is a perfect
choice if you're looking for R&R of the most peaceful kind.
The decorative care-and-flair of Lous Grits' jazzy bar/sitting room
and dining room is also on show in its 5 guest bedrooms, each of
which is named after a different Gascon wind. The 2 ground floor
rooms, Balaguero and Miejournal (the only twin) give onto a decked
inner courtyard and are classified as Superior. Up above
them, accessed by way of a spiral stone staircase or a swish
stainless steel lift, Soulano is the only Suite. This room
has a private terrace and measures in at a whopping 57m². But
my favourite rooms were the 2 Luxury Doubles on the top
floor, Amarijo and Cantoleso, which both have decked terraces
looking to the distant peaks of the Pyrennees.
The decoration of the rooms was a labour of love for owner Martine,
who drew on the combined nous of the region's finest stone masons,
carpenters and artists. A decorative palette of soft pastel colours
provides a subtle backdrop for the warm tones of the
terracotta-tiled floors or, in the case of the ground-floor rooms,
shining oak parquet. Cut flowers and a series of paintings inspired
by La Corrida add a more zesty note whilst antique dressers and
wardrobes evoke the building's past life. The overall vibe is
warm and feminine, conceived to appeal to all of your
senses: you're greeted by the aroma of essential oils and are
encouraged to listen to the CD of classical music that you're given
at reception.
All rooms are comfortable with a capital 'C' and reflect Martine's
love of fine fabrics (courtesy of Pierre Frey, Elitis and Sahco if
you're au fait with the names). Top-of-the-range mattresses
are bedecked with fine cotton sheets and silk bedspreads and you're
treated to a triple bank of pillows, an alpaca throw from the
Camargue and a cotton dressing gown with the Lous Grits logo.
Subtle lighting ups the intimacy factor and bathrooms are
just as keen to please. They come with heated towel rails,
handpainted tiles and all but one have double sinks of the
freestanding or surface-top variety. Expect a pile of snowy-white
towels and stacks of bathroom goodies, including make-up remover
pads, tissues and herbal shampoo, soap and gel.
Gascony's famed douceur de vivre (sweetness of life) stems
not only from its gentle climate, but also from the quality of its
regional cuisine. Happily, Lous Grits pays full lip service
to the cult of Good Food in the Gers. You dine in the diaphanous
dining room, which has 4 huge windows opening out to the courtyard,
or when the weather allows, out in the decked courtyard. Soleado
crockery, Pierre Frey napkins and glassware courtesy of Villeroy
& Boch are as good-looking as the rest of the house.
Breakfast, which is served any time from 7.30 through to
midday, could be better described as brunch and will include the
local fromage blanc served with honey, homemade cake or
crêpes, a choice of breads and croissants straight from the
oven of the village bakery, freshly squeezed orange juice, a big
range of organic jams and, if you fancy one, a boiled egg. The best
teas and coffee are on offer, the latter of the espresso
variety.
At breakfast you'll be asked if you intend to eat dinner at
Lous Grits. Marie or Martine will run through that evenings's
table d'hôtes menu, which always sticks to a
classical, Gascon 4-course structure. The culinary brief is to buy
all ingredients fresh from the local markets, to source organic
produce and to stick to the time-tried recipes of the Gers whenever
possible. Some variant on the foie, magret or confit theme will
always be part of the menu, as will a selection of the region's
cheeses and a homemade dessert. You can choose from a small wine
menu, which lists a selection of mid-range wines from Gascony
and Bordeaux.
If you prefer the idea of dining out you could hardly be
better placed, with half a dozen of south west France's top gastro
venues within easy driving range. The Pain Adour et
Fantaisie has a superb restaurant overlooking the river at
Grenade-sur-L'Adour. The food is both creative and gourmet, aiming
to rework the traditional recipes of the Bas Armagnac. La Table
des Cordeliers at Condom would be a great choice if you've got
something to celebrate; with a 13th-century chapel as its backdrop,
Eric Samprieto's superlative modern Gascon cuisine has been
fêted with a Michelin star. Auberge le Prieuré
at Moirax has also recently been awarded a Michelin star or, closer
to Lous Grits, there are a number of good restaurants in Lectoure,
which include Le Bastard and the Auberge de Bouviers.
Being in its infancy, trends amongst foreign visitors are yet to be established at Lous Grits although the word is already out in Toulouse and Bordeaux. This is a place that is bound to build up a reputation amongst both music lovers and foodies.
The Gers is beautiful at any time of year. If you're a sun worshipper, May - October would be the best time to come, although sunny winter days, when the higher Pyrennean peaks are capped by snow, are hard to beat. But come wind, rain or shine, you are guaranteed a culinary feast throughout the year.
Location
Hotel Lous Grits is set in the small town of Marsolan, in the
Gascony region of southwest France. It's an hour from
Toulouse.
By Air:
Toulouse Airport (80km) and Bergerac Airport (136km)
are the closest. Click on the links below for a list of airlines
serving these airports.
From the Airport
The hotel can arrange a transfer from Toulouse - see
Rates
- but we'd suggest hiring a car so you can explore the
region.
By Train:
If you'd prefer to travel overland from the UK, take the
Eurostar from London to Paris, then the
TGV to Agen (36km); from here you can hire a car or ask the hotel
to collect you.
By Car:
If you need to hire a car, we find
Holiday Autos
are usually the cheapest and you can book online or on the phone
and collect your car at the airport.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through
i-escape.com
More on
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Conde Nast Johansens
"Immerse yourself in gracious French living! Looking out to
picturesque views of Marsolan’s rooftops and surrounding
countryside through quaint, small bedroom windows and from
terraces, this traditional Gascon home is an exquisite little hotel
designed with sophisticated taste incorporating modern conveniences
and local charm. Get away from it all and feel seduced by village
life."
The Times, June 2008
"In Gascony, life relaxes down to ambling pace. Chaps drive
tractors, ladies carry proper baskets and all meet up under the
arcades of the village square, itself simply the continuation of
country life by other means. There’s tons here to see
(Lavardens castle, Flaran Abbey’s art collection, Auch
cathedral’s extraordinary choir stalls) and do (biking,
boating, hiking, horsing), but they can wait. Today, there is a
sunny terrace to sit on, foie gras to eat, wine and armagnac to
drink.
Noble overtones abound at the Hotel Lous Grits, in Marsolan,
between Lectoure and Condom. It’s small, certainly, but with
considerably more feminine elegance than is usually encountered in
country villages."
Reviews are from people who have booked through us.