Posada de la Laguna

Blissful tranquillity and fascinating boat trips at an elegant lodge in the bird-filled wetlands of northeast Argentina

One of the least known of Argentina’s natural wonders, the Esteros del Iberá hosts over 350 species of birds in an immense, dreamlike, watery paradise the size of Belgium. It's so unspoilt that wildlife carries on all around you as if you weren’t there. Your boat slips between floating islands dotted with palms on mirror-calm lagoons reflecting the wide open sky; birds swoop and call in all directions. Returning at sunset, the world turns vermillion, and you’re suspended somewhere between lake and sky.

Among a slew of hotels attracting flocks of European twitchers, Posada de la Laguna is unique. Small, elegant and intimate, it was created by owner Else Guiraldes to give guests contact with this natural beauty and help preserve it. Built in local Correntino style, with gardens going down to the lagoon, hammocks on vine-covered verandas invite you to gaze on wide open views. With just 7 rooms, each guest receives Elsa’s personalised welcome - being here is like staying with charming friends.

Highs

• Inspiring Elsa Guiraldes – painter and granddaughter of a major Argentine poet – makes you feel instantly at ease
• The boat trips: the guides have lived here all their lives, and know the lagoons intimately. They’ll take you to see specific birds, howler monkeys, marsh deer and alligators
• Utter tranquillity - the most relaxing place we visited in Argentina
• Excellent service, without the fuss and pomp of a big hotel
• The food. All locally grown and menus change daily
• All meals and activities included, so it's excellent value for money

Lows

• The posada is beautiful and comfortable, but not 5* luxury hotel standard. However the service is genuine and personalised
• Not for those who want nightlife, urban entertainment and all the mod cons. There’s WiFi, but no TV
• It’s a long way from anywhere - set in small village Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, it's 120km from Mercedes and 800km from BA - but that’s the point