Posada Plaza Mayor

Historic hotel with an enchanting Andalucian courtyard in the heart of a UNESCO World Heritage site, an hour by ferry from Buenos Aires

A flock of parrots scatters into the extravagant orange-lavender sunset, transforming the Río de la Plata to mother-of-pearl. The fragrant Paraíso blossoms intoxicate. With day-trippers gone, the splashing courtyard fountain is interrupted only by the occasional buzz of a motorbike bumping over centuries-old cobblestones. Staying over is the best way to soak in Colonia del Sacramento’s timeless magic.

The Portuguese settled this rocky peninsula in southern Uruguay in 1680, fighting the Spanish for dominion for nearly a century. Today Colonia is a historic treasure, locally renowned for its freshwater beaches, lighthouse and colonial ruins - ideal for history-lovers or anyone seeking a peaceful (and romantic) respite from hectic Buenos Aires. Like the surrounding Barrio Histórico, this 17-room hotel is a fascinating marriage of authentic Portuguese and Spanish heritage architecture; 1860 buildings constructed on a ranch settled in 1700. Ground-floor rooms with irregular Portuguese exposed stone walls open to a flowery courtyard straight out of Old Seville. A small yard overlooks the river promenade. Museums, shops and restaurants are steps away and luxe touches - cotton robes, jetted tubs and WiFi - are within easy reach.

Highs

• Ideally located on a cobblestone street just off the main plaza in the picturesque and fascinating 10-block historic district ;easy walking distance to shops and restaurants
• Captivating Old World courtyard with hummingbirds dashing about; wisteria, jasmine, azaleas, begonias and pansies surround a blue and white ceramic fountain
• The colonial-style former family home includes architectural details and fixtures from the original Portuguese settlement preserved in a charming Spanish layout
• It's a pocket of peace after bustling Buenos Aires
• Unobtrusive and helpful staff

Lows

• Stone walls make rooms dark; some standard rooms lack space and windows, so you may want to splash out on a superior or semi-suite
• The modern additions can feel disconcertingly sterile
• You'll need to eat out for lunch and dinner, which is no hardship given the choices on your doorstep
• Wide-as-the-ocean Río de la Plata is a disappointing dulce de leche (caramel-brown) colour by day; beaches are unpretentious but a bit scruffy
• It's quiet most nights; if you’re hooked on Buenos Aires' all-night party, just come for the day
• No pool, but the beach is close at hand