Pousada Picinguaba

Fabulous hideaway midway between Rio and São Paulo combining unspoilt beaches, tropical rainforest and local colour

Half way between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo is an exceptional hideaway of some considerable beauty. The tiny fishing village of Picinguaba is set on the edge of unspoilt Atlantic rainforest beneath tropical mountain peaks. Here you will gaze across turquoise bays and out to velvet green islands. Vast expanses of open beaches seemingly extend forever.

The pousada at Picinguaba, with its 10 rooms, private schooner and local guides, brings together all that is great about Brazil. Created with great passion by Frenchman Emmanuel Rengade, it's a charming place built in perfect harmony with its natural surroundings: we awoke to the sounds of the forest in the morning, watched giant blue butterflies and brightly-coloured hummingbirds, sailed to deserted islands through dolphins and flying fish, snorkelled in crystal clear waters, walked through the forest, swam under waterfalls, dined on freshly caught seafood and finally drank with the local fishermen playing their guitars underneath the stars. Magical.

Highs

• Perfect mix of style, personal service and relaxed atmosphere
• Fabulous views and unspoilt surroundings (there are no other hotels in the vicinity)
• You can be as active, adventurous, cultural or lazy as you like - the longer the stay the better
• Local guides can take you on jungle hikes and to Parati - a beautifully preserved colonial town 20 minutes away
• Meeting other guests and the friendly villagers
• There's no need to hire a car or organise a thing - transfers from either São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro airports are arranged for you
• The owner has a great commitment towards preserving the local environment and community

Lows

• No TVs, internet connection or mobile phone reception (unless you walk down to the beach) - in the end, this was a high!
• Don't expect luxurious bedrooms with AC or big bathrooms; they're simple but they do have ceiling fans and terraces with hammocks
• You may experience occasional power cuts
• This stretch of coast is rainier than most
• The last 250m to the hotel is by foot. The hotel has its own private parking and they will meet you on the beach to carry your luggage